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We need to bend and solder the led first, than test the led when it layer up. Make sure your iron does not heat over 350 Celsius or 662 Fahrenheit It will help more understand if you take a look on the 3D model plan of AuraCube 888 on Step 4 The R G B pin position on the cube will not change for plan a b and c, but should different on the solder holder. The spacing is 25mm up down left right back forward.

Soldering and Testing of AuraCube8x8x8 1.According to the marking of 'R G B x' on the PCB, bend the 3 led leg in correct direction, except the anode leg. 2.Insert the led to the holder and solder with 3 copper wire, this will become a 'led strip' 3.Align the led strip with another led holder, it should looks like a 8x8 led panel with all pins face in correct direction according to the PCB marking.

The picture above show the rgb pin position is for Auracube888a.dwg model, if you plan for Auracube888b or c model it sholud be different. 4.Solder the anode leg of every led with a copper wire in row/horizontal direction, there will have 8 led panel finally Step 4: 3D Model File and Set Ip of the Anode Wire. All RGB pin just connect to the PCB vertically in column, do not connect with any anode pin connection.

***When mounting 1st led panel to main board the common anode leads start from high to low layer, through hole 1 to 8. Or you can see the anode through hole close to the DC power jack is the top layer.

Anode pin wiring guide Auracube888b.dwg (Recommended) Has more wire but nearly no noise, easy to test the led panel one by one. (view it online) (The free software to open 123dx document is 123D Design by Autodesk) The spacing is 25mm up down left right back forward. It's very important to do this test before soldering onto the PCB- There are many multimeter can 'Test for a Short Circuit', Turn the multimeter settings knob to 'continuity.' The continuity setting is indicated by a small microphone symbol.

It's has about 30ma current allow to light up one led, for led short circuited (inside the led bulb) it will not light up and give the 'bee' sound. If you want to test the leds after soldering on the PCB, the R G B wire on the bottom that soldered onto PCB should be de-solder first, and the multimeter will connect correctly to test the leds. Step 6: Soldering Led Panel / Vertical Layer Onto the PCB.

It will help understanding if you take a look on the 3D models of AuraCube 888 on Step 4. RGB pin are connected to PCB vertically, but anode pin connected in column and a wire connect each column to the PCB. As the anode path on the PCB are shorted in 8 path, connect to four 4953 ICs, so they also can connect each together on top the cube wire, and skip some of the anode hole on the PCB. After testing the led panel with multimeter, now you can insert the led panel onto the PCB through hole, note the R G B pin direction. We can send different rgb firmware if you make mistake. Make sure all led's anode pin on horizontal each layer are connected to the anode wire, so they have power input from the IC 4953.

4pcs of the 4953 give power to 8 anode path, see picture above. (Only if you have built the old version of rgb led cube before, the 8 anode are wire at the back, and now we solder 8 anode on the side, this can be seen clearly on the 3D model) Step 7: Power on and the Remote Controller. Connect the small controller board with a FFC cable, you may slightly bend the cable connector, it will works fine with the acrylic case on. Use a 5V5A DC power in put, it cube will start playing animation in the firmware Remote Controller Button 0 ------------ Animation from the micro SD card 1 ------------ Music spectrum mode 2 ------------ Animation from the firmware 3 ------------ Night Light Mode 4-9 --------- adjust color of the Night Light Mode C------------ Snake game >>Faster >Next animation >Play/Stop Step 8: Software - AuraCube888.exe. No driver needed for the animation software, tested in Win10 Win7, work only on windows Download on the sharing folder Some customer shared their file on Facebook page, you may do so, we will upload them to the sharing folder soon. -to open the software, you need to load the keycode generator, copy the key code and send to the seller, and they will send you the keyConfig(youname + PC ID Code).key file, rename it to keyConfig.key and save in the software folder, so the software will not locked- -left click to fill color, right click to erase color, left click + Ctrl pick/copy color -the software window fit 1080P desktop resolution, too low will not able to scroll or resize the software -The Win10 will alert you not to use this software, but you can select ignore and continue using in Win10. -The keyConfig.key is the registration key for one PC only, can use in multi windows except Mac OS.

-You can get your registration key with the Keycode generator, then send it to the seller and wait for the key. -File auto save on software folder path, you need copy to micro SD card than. -Animation file in micro SD card Must save in a folder named 'rgbcube888' -The micro SD card must be FAT format, not FAT32 -Can use any characters and some symbols for file name, but no Chinese characters. Step 9: Transform Old Cube Animation Document. This will need the ST-Link USB programmer Ribbon cable DC power input or mini USB cable for power input only And all the files firmwares download here 1.Download the software STM32 ST-LINK (it has driver for the USB programmer) 2.The driver will installed after the installing the software 3.Power on the led cube (or connect the small controller board to 5V min usb port for power), and connect each CLK, DIO and GND pin on the PCB together with the usb programmer, and plug in to the PC.

You can't use the 3.3V and 12V pin on the small controller board for power. Press File>Open>firmware.hex, Target>Connect, Target>Program and Verify, it should be done in second. Press Disconnect to remove the small controller board Step 11: The Acrylic Case and Holder Base for the Small Controller Board.

You need to insert the small controller board into the 3D printed holder, and also insert the USB programmer (ST LINK V2), you won't able to remove them when the 3D printed holder is stick on the acrylic case's base. We use double adhesive tape, carefully stick at the back, just a small pieces is enough, more may break the board when removing. The FFC cable connector (blue color) should face to top on two board. The blue connector head should face to top, and slide out the socket first, not pull up. For the acrylic case you can follow this video for reference, the acrylic cement will melt the acrylic be careful not to add too much. Using Electrical Tape to hold the edge together, just 2 piece one Inch tape for each side, the acrylic cement may melt along the tape and acrylic, so no need to paste the full length.

For customer received a new small controller board on last two photo, they are the same board as the old one but easy to connect to the big PCB board and has a microphone, firmware are same to the old small controller board. Step 12: Schematic and Firmware Code. The part of the program I cannot read is as follows Insert File places a menu on the left with the name of the file and a number of pages called Totem When I right mouse click on one of the Pages (Totem) a menu appears I believe the menu works as follows Move Up Move Down Copy Delete 1) Can you tell me what the last menu item does? (rename) 2) Also when I click convert there is a) A check box (select all) b) A Button on the bottom left (choose file) c) A button on the bottom right (start convert) 4) Also included is a Ribbon cable with 20 wires and 40 pins. Please can you advise where these should be connected and their use. (Is it for connecting two cubes together).

Hello Wong, I have built two of my eight panels so far using the 'B' wiring configuration (Auracube888b.dwg) with each layer on a panel having its own anode wire running down the PCB (no anode wires connecting panels). When running the demo software, no individual LEDs light.only complete columns. Is this because the demo software was written for the 'A' wiring configuration? Do you have a library of software samples for the 'B' wiring configuration, which is the configuration recommended in the instructions? Hello Wong, I have already assembled the cube and its working fine, although I have a few issues with it:- 1:- When I tried to update the firmware, it gave me error. I connected ST-link device with my laptop via extension cable, opened the ST-Link software and chose the firmware.hex file, next I clicked on Target->Connect and the software crashed. Please tell me what to do?

I have attached some images, please check and tell me if its connected correctly. And 2:- Audio Spectrum is not working. I switched the mode to audio spectrum (1 key on remote), a few lights were on. I connected the Aux cable to my laptop and audio jack in mini pcb, played a music in my laptop, but it did not show any up and down movement in lights neither did other lights glow up. I have already assembled the cube and its working fine, although I have a few issues with it:- 1:- When I tried to update the firmware, it gave me error. I connected ST-link device with my laptop via extension cable, opened the ST-Link software and chose the firmware.hex file, next I clicked on Target->Connect and the software crashed.

Please tell me what to do? I have attached some images, please check and tell me if its connected correctly. And 2:- Audio Spectrum is not working. I switched the mode to audio spectrum (1 key on remote), a few lights were on. I connected the Aux cable to my laptop and audio jack in mini pcb, played a music in my laptop, but it did not show any up and down movement in lights neither did other lights glow up. Please tell me if I am doing anything wrong?

Also attaching some images. Question for WongH, I don't think the source code as linked above is the source code for the latest.HEX file you link to.

I have re-compiled the source code using Keil uVision V5 and it doesn't work as it stands. A bit of debugging reveals the execution never exits from the initialisation code of CheckCPU_ID in main.c. The line while (0XB83812EF!= MiWen) is always true, thus always loops in this while statement initialising and setting up the USB port. If the above line is commented out it then hangs in the loop while (1) { usb_printf ('0X%8X r n',MiWen).

Commenting out this line and CheckCPU_ID then exits and the animation from firmware works. However the remote control DOES not work. I have placed break points in the KeyHandle code in IR_NEC.c and it never gets hit, implying the IR is not set up correctly. Is there further source code available to match the.HEX file dated? How to re-compile, upload and debug the source code. I managed to re-compile the source code using Kiel uVision V5.15.

Unfortunately you will need to buy the professional version that doesn't have the 32kbytes final code limit of the free/evaluation version. I did manage to get the free version to compile in under 32kbytes by removing the USB code, uSD code, ADC code and snake code, though couldn't test as hadn't received my cube by then. You install Kiel uVision 5.15 and open the.uvoptx file in Project ->Open Project menu. Original file is from Keil V4 but will need to be converted to V5 project. Compile the code by pressing F7. To flash the code into the device select Flash ->Settings ->Debug and select use ST-Link Debugger as shown in first picture.

Then under Settings button ->Flash Download use the Add button to add STM32F10x med-density Flash as shown in 2nd picture. Press OK to return to main window. With the USB ST-Link connected to Flash ->Download (or F8) to load the flash and run the code.

You can also select Debug ->Start/Stop Debug Session (CTRL-F5) to load the flash and start the code running but stop at first instruction to allow debug, tracing, stepping etc etc. It is a very comprehensive debugger linked to the source code. Below are some pictures I took whilst assembling my cube. Bend the LED leads as in the picture, the flat on the LED body to your right. Test the RED LED using a multimeter on Ohms setting. Test the GREEN LED.

So far I have had two failed LEDs. Test the BLUE LED. Trim the anode lead to about 5mm. Insert a wire for blue connection into holder and insert LED's.

Twist the LED's to ensure the wire is held firmly in place. Pull the wire out slightly so that it only touches the 'top' LED's legs. Solder blue connections, trim excess leads and carefully insert a green connection wire. Bend the LED leads slightly so it holds the wire in place.

Trim the excess leads and add red connecting wire. Trittico Botticelliano Program Notes Band. Again bend LED leads to hold wire in place. Trim excess leads. Test once more, as easy to replace a failed LED at this stage.

Insert the columns of 8 LED's into the holders. Ensure the orientation is correct for when inserted into the PCB, so that the R, G & B wires connect up correctly to labelling on PCB.

Solder the anode wire(s). Only one shown here. Hi Completed and now fully functional. This is a serious piece of kit that requires a significant time to build. I love the building part so the fact that it has taken me about 30 hours to build makes fantastic value for 30 hours of fun.

The instructions are being upgraded but still require some work by being totally specific and perhaps providing some techniques. Here is how did it, I built one panel (8x8) at a time in a production line. 1) Bend 64 LEDs pins to the correct configuration. With the head of the LED facing down and the four pins coming up from the LED base (ie upside down LED) and the 4 pins facing me and the longest pin being the 3rd pin (counting left to right) a) Hold the top of pin 4 and bend it to the left until flat (Horizontal). B) Hold the top of pin 1 and bend it to the right until flat (Horizontal). C) Hold the top of pin 2 and bend it away from you until flat (Horizontal).

This will leave the anode pointing upwards. Place on a flat surface with the LED head facing left and the anode running from the head to your right (Repeat 64 times) 2) Cut the anode pin to 1/3 its length on all 64 LEDs 3) Fit 16 of the LEDs into the two holders. Place the holder infront of you running left to right and slide each LED head first into the holder working left to right (Each individual LED holder has three notches in it. I orientated the holder so that the notch closest to the base faced away from me) 4) Fit the three long wire into each of the holders bending the LED pins over the wire to keep the wires in place. 5) Solder all joins on both LED holders 6) Use a pair of pliers to hold the 3 legs of the long wires and pull the Column of LEDs out of the holder (Be careful) 7) Repeat (3) to (6) three more times until you have 8 columns 8) Cut of all the excess LED pins from each of the columns 9) Lie the 8 columns in a row with the legs nearest to you and fit the spacer bar onto the top row of LEDs. 10) Getting the second spacer bar on can be troublesome.

I managed it by standing the columns upright and sliding on the spacer bar onto the bottom row of LEDs. 11) Lay flat, place a wire across the top row of LEDs anodes. Win Xp Media Center Edition 2005 Free Download.

Solder the far left anode then the next anode touching the cross wire. You may need an additional tool to hold the cross wire onto the anodes while soldering 12) Cut off excess wires. 13) I then applied 1.9 volts to test the red columns and 2.8 volts to test the Green and Blue columns 14) I then placed the panel onto the PCB with it facing me and vertical. I then lifted the left hand side up keeping the right hand pins on the PCB then used tweezers to feed the pins into the holes working from right to left slowly lowering the left-hand side as I inserted the pins. 15) Level off the panel ensuring it is vertical and horizontal in both the x and y axis. 16) solder two pins on the left end of the panel. Check everything is still true on the right hand end then solder the right hand side pins.

Double check everything is still true and solder the rest of the pins. 17) at this point the vertical anode ( Panel one to anode row one, Panel two to anode panel row two and so on) needs to be applied 18) The 8 anodes that connect horizontally between the panels can also be soldered on though I would recommend getting two panels in place first.

I hope this is of help to others I had 3 LEDs in the cube that worked when voltage applied but did not show blue and green while running the animation. I replaced them and everything worked perfectly. Once I installed the STM32 ST-Link software on my PC I was able to use it to Flash upgrade the software to [AuraCube888 New Firmware ()] on the Small Control board. This required: 1) The ST-Link to be plugged into my PC 2) The four cable connector (only need three of the cables) connected form the ST-Link to the Small Control Board 3) 5v power supply from a mini USB connector to the Small Control board.

May I suggest the addition of a motion sensor that allows the cube to turn on when someone comes within range and allows a pre-selected program to run for a defined period after motion is no longer detected. This is something I recommended to my Nixie Clock producer (PVElectronics) and works liextremely well for preserving tubes. Hello It would be great if you could give more detail on how this 8x8 cube is assembled 1`you don't give enough details about placement of the RGB LEDs if you use in assemble plan C since the position of Anode changes needs better understanding of placement. 2 You don't give a spacing of the RGB LEDs in rowels & columns ( what is the spacing in mm ) 3 Will there be enough wires if you use plan C to assemble this 8x8 cube?? 4 Are there any other item that will be needed after assembly to make this Cube work??? Please make a post of changes to help in the assembly process. It would help in understanding be for a purchase is made Thank you.