How To Re Cook Crack Resin

Howdy All, I've been lurking in this group intermittently for quite some time now. To introduce myself, my preferred party poisons are (individually and not mixed) meth and decent MDMA (which doesn't seem to be fashionable around my part of the country now. Eh, it'll come back in vogue some day, LOL). Anyhow, while I can get fairly decent ice around here-- actually a hour from here, and I've even got a couple good glass pipes tucked away, it's just such a production to deal with the strange social circle I have to get it through. One of those deals wherein I have to maintain a 'superficial friendship' with my fairly dependable connection (not a dealer) who doesn't seem to want to leave once he makes the delivery. Also, in that my partying is limited to a few days each month (when I'm either out of town, have my place to myself, or feel like killing a day off at home during the day while I have my house to myself) meth's kind of hard to manage [i.e.

Video Below: This video is also available on YouTube here: If you only want the instructions for mixing Plaster of Paris please go directly to the video. By 'what do you do with it' I'm not asking if you do or don't smoke it, since pretty much 99% of people who've smoked crack go straight for the resin when all the rocks are gone. What I'm asking is, for example, at what point do you decide to scrape the resin/push the screen back.

'Odd, ya know, you haven't slept in a couple days and you're yellow somehow' my non-partying life partner would think and go tisk-tisk. On the inside that is, LOL. We're pleasantly dysfunctional that way]. I've had my affairs with both Meth (out west, for about a year 10 years back) and with coke freebasing/making crack (for about 6 months 5 years ago).

Nowadays I can't imagine the daily-every-daily deal (though I'm sure with the right circumstances that could change). Basically right now, I keep my knuckles from turning white by taking a party break about once a month. Though I wouldn't endorse it for anybody else, that system's worked really well for about 2 years now for me. OK, that's my background information.

A few months ago I stumbled onto a really DECENT coke connection for really GREAT coke (that nearly iridescent fish scale kind). Furthermore, the connection/dealer is to-the-point, a nice enough fellow, and real damn honest about the distribution-chain to the extent I can specify 'raw' and get it totally pure (I mean, I rather pay just a little more for 8-ball he has to get higher up the chain, ya know?).

Anyhow, I don't particularly care for snorting coke, but I LOVE smoking it. Back a few years ago, the guy I was with and I got pretty good and cooking it up, although looking back, we probably wasted a lot. These past couple months, I've gotten a couple sixteenths and have been fairly successful at making OK rocks. (The method we used back when was to dip the oil off the water.

Which leads me to believe that even though it was stronger, we probably scotched A LOT of it onto the spoon). Anyhow, here on my own, I've been getting not-quite as strong rocks by being more patience in making it (although not as reserved with letting it dry, LOL).

OK, I'm ALMOST getting to the point of this post, LOL:-). I've occasionally read that you can make it utilizing a shot glass and a microwave. I'd love to try that, but I'm honestly terrified of destroying 1/2 my next stash.

My next scheduled 'party days' are two weeks from today (budget, classes, privacy, and no-drug-test-risk all converge on 10 June). I've RESOLVED (and I'm stating it publicly) to cook it on the 9th and give it a whole day to dry.

As I'll be able to party after classes on the 10th. My preferred (and only available) way to smoke it using a pot pipe with some cigarette ashes. I've got a good metal one I can retrieve the resin from after the rocks are gone. No glass stem here, no way to get one, or desire to (unless someone here makes a good argument for it I've not realized). As I mentioned, I've been using a spoon and a lighter (I do HAVE a torch for my meth pipe, but it burns too hot).

This heating a table measuring spoon up and letting it cool little by little again and again is somewhat tedious. Also, it's messy, I end up with a black suit covered spoon (the torch is clean burning, but it too hot and fast), it gets all over my desk AND me, and I somehow always manage to mildly burn my finger.

(Of course, that usually happens after I've made a couple hits and decide to make more AFTER I've done 'em, LOL.) I've never spilled a spoonful, but that's overdue to happen. This brings me to the whole point of delurking finally and saying hi to the group. (Finally, eh?) I have some questions and am soliciting any advice on successfully making an 8-ball of GREAT product into dry rocks. I'm leaning towards doing this microwave method if I can get feedback and the benefit of someone's experience here.

Actually, microwave or not, I'd like to skip the spoon altogether. First off, I read something regarding a 'vial' and 'swishing it around' as to 'vortex' the forming rock into the center. Does that refer to one of those little vials poppers are usually in (also the bottom half of a larger bump-bullet?).

I'm thinking a shot glass with saran wrap on top is going to be more manageable. Of course I'm just making guess at this point-- seems to me it'd be easier to get the result out of. Not to mention more easy to hold and swish.

The most pertinent articles I found are here (both google archives of posts here I think): and The second article is pretty much what I'd go by if I were trying this without starting a thread here. But notice at the end, it states: 'To smoke the mix. You need a glass pipe. You can't spoke it in a pot pipe.'

I don't get it. Theoretically, if I top the screen on my all metal pot pipe with packed down cigarette ashes, then partially melt down my 'chunk', THEN smoke it, it's the same thing right? I mean that what I've BEEN doing all these years.

(here's where a good argument for a different pipe would come LOL.) Anyhow, sorry to have made this so lengthy, just figured I should delurk in style:-) Also, if this is a thread that marches on for awhile, I'll have some people to be disappointed in me for NOT letting it dry like I have EVERY INTENTION of this time. (I'd love to just be able to get cracked up for a change and not worry with cooking it and skitzoid cleaning up in the process (I get worried I'm cracked up and left some spoon or something laying out on the coffee table or something LOL). Astro Jetson 27.05.04 14:35. 'MycoloTeur' wrote: >Personally, if that was the kind of pipe I had I would break/melt off the >bowl and use it as a straight shooter as described elsewhere. Its too hard >to get the vaporization going right with them.

You have to have exactly the >right amount of dope in them. Most hits would be of lesser >quality/reliability.

You would tend to have either a bubbling boiling ball >of oil (not producing much vapor), or too little dope to get a proper hit, >even though it vaporizes what is there well. >Personally INMO, if you have a source for pipes like the one picutred, just >get one to dedicate for crack, and break off the bowl. Finally, if you have >a source for those, you can probably get a straight shooter.

You were right. Actually, here we've got what equates to a head shop, in what equates to being flea market. It's open Friday and weekends only, so I stopped in this morning. On an aside, I was surprised when I started looking in that particular case they ALSO had the meth burners (which I didn't think would be buy-able anywhere in town here.

I'm about an hour from the more major metro area where there's ONE and only ONE outlet for the latter). And 'MycoloTeur' wrote in second message: >The standard method in downtown LA. One of the crackhead capitals of the >world, is to use a 3-5 inch x 1/4 inch straight glass tube.

You can usually >get them at head shops, and if not, those little roses in glass tubes they >sell at the gas stations. You can also buy one of those long glass tube car >fresheners, and use a torch to melt one end open.

(or a glass cutter if you >have the appropriate type for cutting tubing.the flea market head shop has a few different shapes and sizes. Now, you mentioned 3 (to five) inches long by a quarter inch around above.

That's the same size a cigarette. That seems a little small in diameter to me-- they actually HAVE what they've got labeled 'Pyrex Cigarettes' which are exactly cigarette sized and made of fairly heavy glass (I mean it could actually pass as actual Pyrex brand.

You know like kitchen measuring cups are made of). It's hollow, and designed in such a way that the interior at one end tapers into a bowl and there's a 'finishing nail' sized hole connecting to the rest of the tunnel which is about 50% the exterior diameter. >The real key to smoking crack is to get a bunch of it to vaporize at once. >For this purpose the best product I know of is brillo. (real brillo is best, >but chore boy is also good.) In case you don't know brillo copper wool.if were to pack brillo into this pyrex cigarette, it wouldn't take hardly any fill up that little chamber at the top.

By brillo you do mean the more-coarse steel wool (as opposed to something of the texture of an S.O.S. In fact, do you see the appropriate product here:? Or for that matter, here: (Chore boy)?

Anyhow, aside from the pyrex cigarette, there was something made of regular old clear glass that was closer to the 5 inch length, maybe 3/8 inch in diameter, with a consistently sized tunnel and at one end it had a 'funnel' with a 'roofing nail' sized hole connecting the two. Finally there was something, again clear regular glass, that was just a 4 inch tube maybe 1/2 an inch in diameter (or just shy of it), with a slight 'bell bottom' shape at one end. Again, I'm not going to need it for a couple weeks, so I'll check again next friday. With your description of size, I'm wondering if 'pyrex cigarette' was designed with exactly this in mind. (That and they had A LOT of them. Which tells me they're NOT for pot LOL).

>Leave about a quarter inch at the top for the rock. Put a piece of rock on >top of the brillo.

(here is another area for disagreement. Some people say >burn it just like that.) My experience is that you will get much better >results if you melt the rock down into the brillo. After its melted, start >pulling on it while heating the screen directly with the flame. (you can >heat the tube too, if you want). As soon as a good bit of vapor starts to >flow, stop pulling and start sucking/inhaling. Don't pull too hard. Note: if >you let the melted rock harden, you may not be able to hit it till you heat >it to melt it.

Just keep gently pull/inhaling and keep the flame on. Using my all metal pot pipe with a screen, and bed of about 1/4 inch of cigarette ashes, my best results are usually taking a chunk, and progressively gently melting it with the cigarette lighter 2 or three times and letting it cool in between, as to make a 'oily puddle' on the top of the cigarette ashes bed, then lighting that, pulling, and turning off the flame when it started smoking.

I think as some point, I came to the conclusion I was melting it down, mixing with ashes, then ultimately lighting it more from underneath the puddle. WAY, WAY back when, when we used to dip the yellow oil right off the water with something metal (which I've not been able to achieve this past few months anyhow) simply dripping THAT goop right onto the ashes and pretty much immediately lighting it was the BEST hit we could achieve. But like I said, I'm pretty sure that was at the expense of A LOT of waste of coke.

Anyhow, it sounds like the method you described is about the same effect without the waste. And wrote this in that first message: >And finally, don't do any of this. Crack is nasty fucking shit.

It ruins >your lungs, it ruins your heart, it can even ruin your eyesight and hearing. >It is not good for your brain either.

Crack is truly the scourge of planet >earth. >>Either way.

Whatever you do this weekend, try to remember what I am telling >you. Don't misunderstand. I have smoked the hell out of crack, and I >understand its appeal. However, it is not even remotely worth the risk to >smoke it even once in my book. Well, THIS weekend, I'm staying home, being domestic and respectable, and studying for a major test I have Tuesday. Anyhow, the 'smoking it even once' ship sailed a long time ago.

As I write this, I could very well call my dealer, get a 16th here, and spend the rest of the afternoon making myself a freebase lunch. I had my 'party days' a couple weeks ago, and that was for me for the month of May. Rather than lie to myself that I'm free of wanting to get high, I'm better off to always have 'partying' somewhere on the horizon. Right now it's Thursday-Friday in a couple weeks. I can exercise this kind of control over crack (at least in combination with my personal circumstances). For me, meth is much more likely to derail my intentions.

Maybe I am rationalizing, but I do know that I won't be ferreting out getting high for the next couple weeks, since I know I've got it planned for later.:-) All that said, I'm really hoping someone will take a look at: And corroborate the 'Microwave Instructions'. I'd like to try this, but I really would like a couple live 2004 testimonials.

Shopperick 28.05.04 12:31. Astro Jetson wrote in message news. Ok here goes.I would suggest making a pipe using a pill bottle, bic pen,tin foil, stick of gum and a pin ( I would suggest glass stem first but you said no go on that.) Although you already know you can do it via a pot pipe you are wasting a ton as it melts through the ash and the screen. At least with the tin foil(still not the greatest method but IMO better than a pot pipe screen) you can regulate the amount of holes through which the rock will melt.Also getting the resin out ( via alcohol wash) is much easier and more complete than anything your doing now. As far as cooking is concerned you seem to be having quite a hard time! I assume your using baking soda and water.You could always use the stove top- no soot problem OR turn the torch down ( and hold it away from the spoon.)otherwise just be neater with what you got! Lighters are more easy and convenient IMO.

You may also want to try using the tube from a Garcia Vega Crystal cigar.It is NOT Pyrex so don't expect it to withstand heat for to long (they're good for 2-3 batches then they'll start to crack.excuse the pun). With the tube you can swirl and essentially get the oil to harden into a ball then just dump it out onto a paper towel. No need to cook the nite before and let it dry. If your batch ain't getting hard you need to cook it more.Using to much soda will also cause problems.if the product is as good as you say you shouldn't need much more than a big pinch or 2 of soda. Also it is important to use fresh soda.i have found that the box in the fridge there to keep smells away doesn't work very well after a month or so in the fridge. Basically you need to practice and remember what works and what doesn't. If you are careful you really can't ruin a batch unless you spill it.As long as your not boiling the shit out of it the good stuff ain't goin nowhere!

You should also try dripping a melting ice cube into the spoon to cool it more rapidly.which will harden up your rock quicker as well or set the spoon on a cold wet towel once your done heating it. If I were there I could show you how easy it is.but then i'd smoke all your shit!

Good luck Comrade Qat 28.05.04 19:26. On Fri, 28 May 2004 16:31:35 GMT, 'projectile vomit chick' wrote: >>Incidentally, here's what I read regarding the 'vial' and >>'spinning'. It's down toward the end. (Also a post here, actually. >>from 2001 ).

>Dude you're fucking spun. Take some Valium and sit the fuck down.

Being sprung iz a lot more fun, lemme-tellyah I wanna do it more. And get some, even. No 1800 miles of being-apart.

Fuck that!looking @ the same crescent moon waking up after having a shared dream. Gimme a fucking break from it! Mainunderdawg 29.05.04 10:35.

What's up, brotha. I've never cooked a whole ball either, having always used the spoon method. I only cooked my own rocks about 20 to 30 times so you are probably more experienced than me but I'll add my two cents anyways and hopefully some of it will be useful to you. I started out using 1/3 baking soda 2/3 coke (as someone had suggested to me), but found that it didn't burn as well as if I used almost half baking soda. I never actually bothered using the 'true' freebasing method of extracting the coke with the ether or whatever because I always cooked small amounts like a 20 or 40 bag and didn't think it was worth it.

That and when I got coke, I just wanted rocks as soon as possible. An ex-dealer of mine suggested when cooking a ball or more to use a jar. He said to boil a pot of water, and put the jar with all the ingredients in the pot.

This way you don't run the risk of the jar cracking and wasting a whole bunch of dope. I would also use a good pot that distributes the heat well just to make sure. Then after it's nicely cooked up he just said to first put the jar in a bath of cold water, then in the freezer (this way you don't take it right from the boiling water to the freezer, changing the pressure of the jar rapidly and causing it to burst). Hope this helps.I haven't cooked in a while. Partly because I lost my hookups so I would have to peep around for a new one and partly because I just don't have the money now to do junk and rocks. I'll take junk over rocks any day because I have developed some really bad comedowns from rocks.

Not like when I first started I would have barely any crash at all. And after smoking rocks the dope you do is largely a waste, but becomes a necessity just to manage the crash. Anyways, hope this helps and good luck brotha. Astro Jetson 29.05.04 12:37. On 28 May 2004 12:31:00 -0700, (shopperick) wrote: >>Ok here goes.I would suggest making a pipe using a pill bottle, bic >pen,tin foil, stick of gum and a pin ( I would suggest glass stem >first but you said no go on that.) Although you already know you can >do it via a pot pipe you are wasting a ton as it melts through the ash >and the screen. At least with the tin foil(still not the greatest >method but IMO better than a pot pipe screen) you can regulate the >amount of holes through which the rock will melt.Also getting the >resin out ( via alcohol wash) is much easier and more complete than >anything your doing now. Actually, I posted this to a.d.crack too and got a pretty convincing reply re: pipes.

I actually crossposted my reply to here. I did find that I do have access to a few different stems. And'll pick up one of them this Friday. Actually, anyone reading this that has a stem that works good for you, take a ruler and measure it in length and diameter.

I found something I think is exactly right although my first impression is it's too small-- it's pyrex and exactly the same size as a standard cigarette (I mean like a legal Newport LOL). >As far as cooking is concerned you seem to be having quite a hard >time! I assume your using baking soda and water.You could always use >the stove top- no soot problem OR turn the torch down ( and hold it >away from the spoon.)otherwise just be neater with what you got! >Lighters are more easy and convenient IMO. You may also want to try >using the tube from a Garcia Vega Crystal cigar.

Actually with what I've read, and my experience with this new connection I've used the last few months, I think I'm going to go the shot glass/microwave/gram and change at a time route (8 ball divided by three). Merging two or three articles I've read with my experience with the reaction when on a spoon, I'm imagining the 10 seconds, swirl, cool a little, repeat route will get me there. >It is NOT Pyrex so >don't expect it to withstand heat for to long (they're good for 2-3 >batches then they'll start to crack.excuse the pun). With the tube >you can swirl and essentially get the oil to harden into a ball then >just dump it out onto a paper towel. No need to cook the nite before >and let it dry. If your batch ain't getting hard you need to cook it >more.Using to much soda will also cause problems.if the product is as >good as you say you shouldn't need much more than a big pinch or 2 of >soda.

Also it is important to use fresh soda.i have found that the >box in the fridge there to keep smells away doesn't work very well >after a month or so in the fridge. I figured that part out a few years back. I keep the baking soda for this recipe in an airtight tupperware thing in my computer room's closet. (BTW, wouldn't use soda that'd been in the fridge EVER as it's function when in the fridge is to ABSORB stink and germs. The crack head explained as he introduced narcotics into his system, LOL). >Basically you need to practice and remember what works and what >doesn't. If you are careful you really can't ruin a batch unless you >spill it.As long as your not boiling the shit out of it the good stuff >ain't goin nowhere!

You should also try dripping a melting ice cube >into the spoon to cool it more rapidly.which will harden up your rock >quicker as well or set the spoon on a cold wet towel once your done >heating it. That's kind of what I've been doing. I'm just convinced that a combination of not letting it dry, using a counterproductive pipe, and trying to make MORE (especially the fire/spoon way) once I'm already flying a little has been way wasteful and subsequently expensive, LOL. So this time around, I'm doing the microwave the afternoon before while I've got my place to myself (it's one thing to lock myself in my office/computer room, it'd be another to do that and bring our microwave in here with me, LOL), then the next day (Friday!) I'm getting up and spending the day with my yield.

>If I were there I could show you how easy it is.but then i'd smoke >all your shit! If this wasn't so incredibly illegal, I'd photoessayize the process for the Junkie Community. Astro Jetson 29.05.04 12:52. On 29 May 2004 10:35:00 -0700, (mainunderdawg) wrote: >That and when I got coke, I just wanted rocks as soon as possible. I think that's universal, LOL.

There needs to be a FAQ and it needs to state at item 1.1.A 'Cook it all before you start smoking' too. >An >ex-dealer of mine suggested when cooking a ball or more to use a jar. >He said to boil a pot of water, and put the jar with all the >ingredients in the pot. This way you don't run the risk of the jar >cracking and wasting a whole bunch of dope. I would also use a good >pot that distributes the heat well just to make sure.

Then after it's >nicely cooked up he just said to first put the jar in a bath of cold >water, then in the freezer (this way you don't take it right from the >boiling water to the freezer, changing the pressure of the jar rapidly >and causing it to burst). I think this partly why I'm a little apprehensive about that. The shot glass idea combined with the microwave and the ability to be able to 'centrifuge' it around a little that'll permit seems like it's the least likely to cause a problem. Also, if I end up with a mess of goo stuck to the bottom of a shot glass, EVENTUALLY that'll dry and cool and can be 'popped off.'

I'd been using these Ecko brand deep bowl shaped stainless steel Tablespoon measuring spoons, and getting anything stuck on them was just not happening. >Hope this helps.I haven't cooked in a >while. Partly because I lost my hookups so I would have to peep around >for a new one and partly because I just don't have the money now to do >junk and rocks. I'll take junk over rocks any day because I have >developed some really bad comedowns from rocks. Not like when I first >started I would have barely any crash at all.

And after smoking rocks >the dope you do is largely a waste, but becomes a necessity just to >manage the crash. Anyways, hope this helps and good luck brotha. Blowing this stuff for some reason really puts me in a heebie jeebie place.

I've got the exact opposite of you. Rocks are smooth in and out, and with the exception of the next day jones, I'm perfectly fine. In fact, I can smoke the yield from a 16th at 6pm and be in bed as normal at 11. Thanks for the message man. MycoloTeur 30.05.04 21:59. 'Astro Jetson' wrote in message news:5hqeb0dp8j4kaj9a6avs6j963lvbca7831@4ax.com.

>'MycoloTeur' wrote: >>>Personally, if that was the kind of pipe I had I would break/melt off the >>bowl and use it as a straight shooter as described elsewhere. Its too hard >>to get the vaporization going right with them. You have to have exactly the >>right amount of dope in them. Most hits would be of lesser >>quality/reliability. You would tend to have either a bubbling boiling ball >>of oil (not producing much vapor), or too little dope to get a proper hit, >>even though it vaporizes what is there well. >>>Personally INMO, if you have a source for pipes like the one picutred, just >>get one to dedicate for crack, and break off the bowl.

Finally, if you have >>a source for those, you can probably get a straight shooter. >>>You were right. Actually, here we've got what equates to a head shop, >in what equates to being flea market. It's open Friday and weekends >only, so I stopped in this morning. On an aside, I was surprised >when I started looking in that particular case they ALSO had the meth >burners (which I didn't think would be buy-able anywhere in town >here.

I'm about an hour from the more major metro area where there's >ONE and only ONE outlet for the latter). >>There are two kinds used primarily in the hardcore circles I used to hang with. A) Either completly straight, no diameter change, and roughly the lentgth and diameter of a regular to a 100mm cigarette. Anything in that zone is fine. B) the same thing except one end is tapered slightly. The main reason for this is that occasionally, if you don't pack your screen properly, It can slide and you can end up with a mouthful of dope and or a red hot ball of screen. Always watch it, if the screen slides, its either too small, not packed, or both.

Even if you use the tapered type you can still end up with a mouthfull of dope, so pay attentiion. Based on the description you gave, I have a feeling you have yet to experience a _proper_ hit. So be careful, you could easily get far more than you are expecting with a brillo based piped. The difference is just not even comprehensible between it and most other methods.

As I mentioned, I used to slam coke, and this technique is close enough to simulate the effect of a pretty good shot. No other ever came close.

The advice on cooking in other message is good. So back to pipes. Oh, avoid anything you can not see through.

Avoid anything with bumps or crevices etc. Straight shooter is best in my book, with the tapered type a close second. Litterally, if you cut the end off of that meth bowl, you have a straight shooter. Regarding screens. Do Not use steel wool. The first item on the peapod page is what you want. Generically, you want 'copper scouring pad' (be careful when tearing off a chunk, that shit can cut the hell out of your fingers.) A few final notes.

Don't forget to burn off the crap off of the chunk of wool. Spread it out finely, and heat it red hot with a lighter. You will see it smoke and such.

As a screen gets worn out, it will tend to start to fall apart, don't keep using it cause those little bits of metal can start to break off and get in your gums or even worse. It takes a lot of dope and a lot of screen cleaning to get them to that point so its not like they dangerous from the gate, but don't push it. When in doubt change screens.

(make sure you burn off any dope in the screen though. I single properly sized screen can hold something in the neighbor hood of >3/16 of a gram. Its a lot of dope to lose. So pay attention Eventually the screen will clog, push it out of the pipe (after smoking anything on it) and restretch the wool out. Burn it like you did before.

Flex it to crack off any carbon deposits. Depending on how clean it got you may need to repeat. Then repack it. After repacking it, blow through it before inhaling. If its good, home cooked dope, it will take a long time to clog the screen. (though like I said, if you let the resin cool after melting it onto the screen, you may not be able to hit it without heating the pipe to remelt the resin.(then gently pull through and then start heating with flame.

Pay attention if you put a lot of dope on the pipe it will run out the back of the screen as hot liquid resin and you may get a mouthful. Just roll the pipe if that happens and it will coat the inside of the tube and you can get it later.

All your dope will get used this way. You will waste almost 0. You can either scrape, push or both. For scraping, wait til the resin in the back is good and hard. Take a coat hanger (that has no lacuer on it.) and hold the pipe with the screen down. Scrape the resin off the insides of the pipe, down onto the screen.

Then melt it back into the screen and its ready to go again. Depending on the dope the pipe the screen the pusher, and the smoker, you can also use th scraper as a 'pusher' and just slide the screen to the opposite end of the pipe.

As it goes, the resin will cake of in big flakes. You can push it all the way to the end and then melt whatever is there back into the screen.

Be careful these are often the most potent hits. If your screen rolls around when you try to push it, its far too (50%) small. If it doesn't scrape anything off the sides its either too small or not packed enough. See above >Anyhow, it sounds like the method you described is about the same >effect without the waste. Almost no waste (with a little practice) and. No, I would say as above that you are in for a suprise.

My best guess is that if you really worked at it and were lucky, then you might be getting 40% of what you will get on a bad day with what I am talking about. (Not even counting the waste.) I will be curious to hear your opinion though, Just remember to hold your hits a long time. When you are smoking good crack, if you blow out smoke you are wasting dope.

Street crack has a lot of crap in it (and so it _smokes_). But good home cooked dope (specially from that mother of pearl you described) is almost pure cocaine base vapor not smoke and so its all dope. Remember at least until you understand the differences use a lot less dope than you are used to. Love and Light. Astro Jetson 31.05.04 07:16. On Sun, 30 May 2004 21:59:46 -0700, 'MycoloTeur' wrote: >There are two kinds used primarily in the hardcore circles I used to hang >with. >>a) Either completly straight, no diameter change, and roughly the lentgth >and diameter of a regular to a 100mm cigarette.

>>Anything in that zone is fine. >>b) the same thing except one end is tapered slightly. >>The main reason for this is that occasionally, if you don't pack your screen >properly, It can slide and you can end up with a mouthful of dope and or a >red hot ball of screen. Always watch it, if the screen slides, its either >too small, not packed, or both. >>Even if you use the tapered type you can still end up with a mouthfull of >dope, so pay attentiion. >>One warning.

Based on the description you gave, I have a feeling you have >yet to experience a _proper_ hit. So be careful, you could easily get far >more than you are expecting with a brillo based piped. The difference is >just not even comprehensible between it and most other methods. Yeah actually I've got some insight into that; in 2000 I spent sometime in New England.

The few months I was there I had some periphery exposure to and experience with that kind of pipe (i.e. It was packed and lit FOR me each time). I did notice quite a difference-- at the time I attributed it the quality of the rocks.

In retrospect it all makes sense. >The advice on cooking in other message is good. I believe after I have the test out of the way tomorrow, I'll spend a little while writing out 'the recipe' myself and get it reviewed. There's a few thing I'm curious about and think that'll bring them to light.

(Really, I'm not as obsessive-compulsive as all this sounds, I'd just rather get it right. Especially since it's my once a month $200 vacation, LOL). One thing I know I'm iffy on is the more compete set of instructions of the two I referenced before says to cover the shot glass with saran wrap and it doesn't say to remove it until after the concoction has cooled for an hour. I'd think that that would trap in moisture and inhibit it drying. Anyhow, like I said, I'm going to write it out and see what other ambiguities there are. >So back to pipes.

>Oh, avoid anything you can not see through. Avoid anything with bumps or >crevices etc. Straight shooter is best in my book, with the tapered type a >close second. >>Litterally, if you cut the end off of that meth bowl, you have a straight >shooter. That's what I'll grab then. From what I'd seen before of stems, I'd kind of thought that the diameter was too narrow, but with it explained about vaporization/ashes/resin, I'm getting that potency of a chunk that'd fit in that size (as opposed to quantity of burning a much larger piece on the pot pipe's bowl) is the objective.

>Free Download Kahin To Hoga Serial more. Regarding screens. Do Not use steel wool. The first item on the peapod page >is what you want.

>>Generically, you want 'copper scouring pad' (be careful when tearing off a >chunk, that shit can cut the hell out of your fingers.) I'll check for the brand here. I've never seen it, but I've also never looked for it. [cont.] >Don't forget to burn off the crap off of the chunk of wool.

Spread it out >finely, and heat it red hot with a lighter. You will see it smoke and such. >>As a screen gets worn out, it will tend to start to fall apart, don't keep >using it cause those little bits of metal can start to break off and get in >your gums or even worse. >>It takes a lot of dope and a lot of screen cleaning to get them to that >point so its not like they dangerous from the gate, but don't push it.

When >in doubt change screens. (make sure you burn off any dope in the screen >though. I single properly sized screen can hold something in the neighbor >hood of >3/16 of a gram. Its a lot of dope to lose. So pay attention >>Eventually the screen will clog, push it out of the pipe (after smoking >anything on it) and restretch the wool out. Burn it like you did before.

>Flex it to crack off any carbon deposits. Depending on how clean it got you >may need to repeat. Then repack it. After repacking it, blow through it >before inhaling. >>>If its good, home cooked dope, it will take a long time to clog the screen.

>(though like I said, if you let the resin cool after melting it onto the >screen, you may not be able to hit it without heating the pipe to remelt the >resin.(then gently pull through and then start heating with flame. >>Pay attention if you put a lot of dope on the pipe it will run out the back >of the screen as hot liquid resin and you may get a mouthful. Just roll the >pipe if that happens and it will coat the inside of the tube and you can get >it later. >>All your dope will get used this way.

You will waste almost 0. I've got a smooth steel precision screwdriver (flat head, it's MAYBE 1/16 of an inch wide). It's the tool that matched the stem on my meth bowl (to achieve the same reclamation). [cont.] >You can either scrape, push or both.

For scraping, wait til the resin in the >back is good and hard. Take a coat hanger (that has no lacuer on it.) and >hold the pipe with the screen down.

Scrape the resin off the insides of the >pipe, down onto the screen. Then melt it back into the screen and its ready >to go again. >>Depending on the dope the pipe the screen the pusher, and the smoker, you >can also use th scraper as a 'pusher' and just slide the screen to the >opposite end of the pipe. As it goes, the resin will cake of in big flakes. >You can push it all the way to the end and then melt whatever is there back >into the screen. >>Be careful these are often the most potent hits. >>If your screen rolls around when you try to push it, its far too (50%) >small.

If it doesn't scrape anything off the sides its either too small or >not packed enough. >>>Almost no waste (with a little practice) and. >>No, I would say as above that you are in for a suprise.

My best guess is >that if you really worked at it and were lucky, then you might be getting >40% of what you will get on a bad day with what I am talking about. (Not >even counting the waste.) >>I will be curious to hear your opinion though, Above items noted. Anyway, I pretty much anticipate a difference.

Before this thread, I didn't grasp all the fundamental differences between the pot/ashes pipe and the glass/copper-wool pipe. >Just remember to hold your hits a long time. When you are smoking good >crack, if you blow out smoke you are wasting dope. >>Street crack has a lot of crap in it (and so it _smokes_). But good home >cooked dope (specially from that mother of pearl you described) is almost >pure cocaine base vapor not smoke and so its all dope.

Remember at least until you understand the differences use a lot >less dope than you are used to. I really do appreciate the primer. MycoloTeur 31.05.04 17:28. 'Astro Jetson' wrote in message news:a3cmb0pokfgkivc9es2v682uf9nbll5085@4ax.com. The glass is full of water.

You can not trap what is already there. (well you can, but you know what I mean. The point is that if you have the right amount of soda, and you heat it thoroughly, then the oil will coalesce into a solid marble of dope 'in the water' Once it hardens you drop it on some carboard and let it dry for a little while. An hour is a long time for small batches. Hell its a long time for most batches. >>>So back to pipes. >>Oh, avoid anything you can not see through.

Avoid anything with bumps or >>crevices etc. Straight shooter is best in my book, with the tapered type a >>close second.

>>>>Litterally, if you cut the end off of that meth bowl, you have a straight >>shooter. >>>That's what I'll grab then.

From what I'd seen before of stems, I'd >kind of thought that the diameter was too narrow, but with it >explained about vaporization/ashes/resin, I'm getting that potency of >a chunk that'd fit in that size (as opposed to quantity of burning a >much larger piece on the pot pipe's bowl) is the objective. A 1/16 inch cube of good dope _properly smoked_ is a pretty good hit. Yeah, though you can never get all the dope off of metal, and like I said, you will get metal in your dope. As I said, you would be far better off to stop fucking with it. But if you are going to, you might as well know what you are doing. Love and Light Crl8Mon 01.06.04 23:43.

Subject: Re: Crack Cooking with Astro Jetson From: Astro Jetson Date: 5/28/2004 1:53 PM Eastern Standard Time Message-id: LET ME TELL YOU ALL FROM SOMEONE WHO HAS SMOKED A TON OF CRACK!! YOU NEED TO USE A LARGE SOCKET i LIKE THE ONES THAT HAVE A LITTLE WALL WITH A HOLE INSIDE OF IT INSTEAD OF THE ONES THAT STRAIGHT ALL THE WAY THROUGH!

TAKE YOUR CHORE BOY AND BURN THE COPPER COATING OFF WITH A TORCH SET ON LOW THEN FOLD IT INTO A SQUARE SHAPE A LITTLE LARGER THAN THE SOCKET OPENING AND CRAM IT IN. PUT YOUR ROCK ON AND USE A LIGHTER AND APPLY VERY LITTLE HEAT JUST ENOUGH TO MELT THE ROCK ABOUT HALF WAY ONTO THE SURFACE OF THE CHORE BOY!! THEN USE A SMALL COTTON BALL ON THE END OF SOME HEMOSTATS AND DIP IN PURE GRAIN ALCHOL AND LIGHT IT. TURN THE SOCKET SO THE ROCK FACES DOWN SLIGHTLY AND JUST TAP LIGHTLY WITH THE HEAT AND PUFF LIKE A CIGARETTE WHEN YOU GET THE VAPORS FLOWING INHALE AND HOLD AND THE TRAIN WILL ROAR!!!!!! THE BEST THING IS WITH THE SOCKET YOU HAVE A LARGER SURFACE SO IT RUNS TO THE EDGES LONGER AND THEN IF THERE IS ANY LEFT IF YOU DONT JUST TORCH IT CHERRY RED ALL THE TIME YOU CAN TURN THE CHORE BOY OVER AND SMOKE THE RESIDUE FOREVER!!!

I ALSO LIKE TO TAKE THE SOCKET BEFORE I COOK THE LAST BATCH AND POUR ALCHOL IN IT WHILE HOLDING MY PLLM ON THE BOTTOM AND PLACE THE OTHER PALM ON TOP AND SHAKE OVER A PLATE THEN BURN THE REGULAR ALCHOL ONLY NOT PGA FOR THIS OFF YOU WILL HAVE THIS BLACK STUFF PUT IT IN THE LAST BATCH YOU COOK AND YOU GET THIS AWESOME BLACK AND YELLOW ROCK THAT KICKS ASS!!! OF COURSE PUT A NEW SCREEN IN THE SOCKET AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE CLEANED ALL THE ALCHOL OUT BEFORE SMOKING THE LAST BATCH!!!! PS TRY TO LOOK IN A,IRROR WHIL FLAMING YOUR HIT DO NOT LET THE SCREEN TURN RED THIS IS A BIG WASTE TOO MUCH HEAT KILLS THE HIT!!!! Zaphod 'stil prez' 01.06.04 23:51.

Well his heart was in the right place anyhow. Although I'm still confused as to what a 'socket' is. But I can figure it out from context. Actually, as it stands now, I've got my 'crack kit' almost completely together (minus the 8-ball I'm scoring next Wednesday and the stem itself). I'm heading to a local head shop tomorrow to see if I can't find this stem I've been told to get.

But I have my shot glasses, new arm and hammer, distilled water, measuring things, 8x10 mirror, chore boy. It's been a learning experience. I've also written pretty concise directions for making microwave crack and plan on taking notes and stuff. If I could figure a way to set up a site for it without getting myself arrested, I'd do that. Astro Jetson 03.06.04 12:39.

On Thu, 3 Jun 2004 10:12:48 -0500, 'Zaphod 'stil prez ' wrote: Well his heart was in the right place anyhow. Although I'm still confused as to what a 'socket' is.

But I can figure it out from context. Actually, as it stands now, I've got my 'crack kit' almost completely together (minus the 8-ball I'm scoring next Wednesday and the stem itself). I'm heading to a local head shop tomorrow to see if I can't find this stem I've been told to get. But I have my shot glasses, new arm and hammer, distilled water, measuring things, 8x10 mirror, chore boy. It's been a learning experience. I've also written pretty concise directions for making microwave crack and plan on taking notes and stuff.

If I could figure a way to set up a site for it without getting myself arrested, I'd do that. Zaphod 'stil prez' 03.06.04 14:47. 'Astro Jetson' wrote in message news:8avub0p167sf7bvusd316qv9kmuq5f4kck@4ax.com.

I thought it was like baking soda or powder, water, cocaine and nuke and instant freebase. There was also some other method I used as a kid with ether but I don't remember that one. Shit I only just found out how easy it is to cook up a batch of meth if you have the right ingredients. Now trying making good pharmaceutical LSD there's a challenge and something only legit chemists should do. Zaphod muthaloda 14.06.04 05:33. Astro Jetson wrote in message news.

>>If this wasn't so incredibly illegal, I'd photoessayize the process >for the Junkie Community. Was this the weekend? Was this past Friday night the one you had all to yourself? I sure would love to hear about it and I suspect some others would, too!

I am especially curious to know if you were successful at getting that 'swirling motion' vortex-dealie going while cooling the rock in the microwaved shotglass. I have *MY* Friday night all to myself coming up soon and am all ready to go with everything that's needed execept the MAIN ingredient which comes in either tomorrow or Wednesday.:-) I am experienced already, although by no means a consistent smoker. It happens only about 6 or 7 times a year for me. If anyone else out there is reading this and has some insight on the swirling vortex of cooling crack-rock, please do share!:-) OK!

Let's get a follow-up going here, Astro Jetson! We all want to know!:-D --Muthaloda Astro Jetson 14.06.04 13:36. On 14 Jun 2004 05:33:46 -0700, (muthaloda) wrote: >>So Astro! >>Was this the weekend? Was this past Friday night the one you had all >to yourself? I sure would love to hear about it and I >suspect some others would, too! I am especially curious to know if you >were successful at getting that 'swirling motion' vortex-dealie going >while cooling the rock in the microwaved shotglass.

Yeah, that was this past Friday. The whole process worked pretty well-- DEFINITELY BETTER than trying to use a metal spoon and lighter. I've got most the instructions I made for myself beforehand annotated, and when I get the chance in the next couple days, I'll go through and 'final draft' them to reflect what I experienced actually trying it. That said, there were a couple nuisances that weren't spelled out clearly to me in the instructions that I figured out as I was doing it. First of all microwaves are FAST. I finally arrived at 7 seconds at 60% power, allow to cool a minute, and then repeat.

I takes about 5 or six cycles to start to see any appreciable formation. Also, in that it was kind of sticking to the sides on the top of the water, I 'mixed it all back up' breaking the stuff that was sticking to the sides at the top off around the fifth cycle, let it cool completely, and started the 7 second blasts again. At that point I could see the beginnings of the rocks. That's when swirling kind of drew the matter all into the middle.

On my second batch, I suddenly had pretty big yellow cookie floating at the top (the size of a quarter glued to a nickel) and perfectly clear water. I didn't have to dump it out, it was hard and well formed enough to reach in with my pinky and just take it out. Of course it sank the second I touched it.

Anyhow, I let it dry on a piece of copy paper for an hour under a fan. It was absolutely PERFECT. The most important things I can point out are that you've GOT TO LET IT COOL OFF between each microwave cycle. I don't think on my most successful batch I ever got the shotglass hot enough I couldn't hold it with my bare hand. And it takes SEVERAL CYCLES. Don't get discouraged or impatient when you can't actually see much happening.

When it does start to crystalize--like a baking soda mess sticking to the sides--that's when you kind of 'stir it back up' so that everything's actually floating in the water and not scorching onto sides. Once you do have some solids floating around, that's when you start occasionally swirling the glass to get them to all kind of meet in the center and stick together. And also, if you can manage it, DON'T get cracked up on the first batch then try to make a second batch while cracked up.

(Or in my case, smoke the second then try to make the third, LOL). Even though you're not balancing a spoon and an open flame, it's still too tempting to rush and skip the cooling periods:-) >If anyone else out there is reading this and has some insight on the >swirling vortex of cooling crack-rock, please do share!

Let's get a follow-up going here, Astro Jetson! We all want to >know!:-D Actually, I'd like stem insights too. This was my first experience using a straight shooter, I can't help but think I never got the density of the filter right. Muthaloda 15.06.04 05:31. >>were successful at getting that 'swirling motion' vortex-dealie going >>while cooling the rock in the microwaved shotglass. >>>Yeah, that was this past Friday.

The whole process worked pretty >well-- DEFINITELY BETTER than trying to use a metal spoon and lighter. >>I've got most the instructions I made for myself beforehand annotated, >and when I get the chance in the next couple days, I'll go through and >'final draft' them to reflect what I experienced actually trying it. Oh that's very cool! I am sure many people really appreciate your taking the time to do so, and spelling out the nuisances you encountered. This seems to be the most important part since I think we can compile a pretty good set of instructions for what to do-- what NOT to do however, is a different story. >The most important things I can point out are that you've GOT TO LET >IT COOL OFF between each microwave cycle. I don't think on my most >successful batch I ever got the shotglass hot enough I couldn't hold >it with my bare hand.

And it takes SEVERAL CYCLES. Don't get >discouraged or impatient when you can't actually see much happening.

>When it does start to crystalize--like a baking soda mess sticking to >the sides--that's when you kind of 'stir it back up' so that Oh this is good info!! I am sure that's where I've gone wrong in the past! I've always thought I should have gotten back a rock that was more proportional to the amount of coke going in. >>Actually, I'd like stem insights too. This was my first experience >using a straight shooter, I can't help but think I never got the >density of the filter right.

Well this is something I know pretty well. That choreboy stuff is basically copper mesh all rolled up, with the ends fused together. If you manage to clip the fused ends properly, this can be straightened out into a tube-shaped roll of copper mesh (Don't worry about it if you can't get it into this shape-- I am only mentioning it for demonstration purposes). I would say you need about 1.5 inches of this for every 1/4-inch of diameter that is in your stem. My stem is 1/2-inch wide so my piece of chore boy is about 3 inches long. The most important part about the screen/filter from my perspective is getting it packed down into the end of the pipe.

I use the old straight shooter. I stuff my choreboy in, and then holding the choreboy-end of the pipe firmly against a hard, flat surface, I reach in with a chopstick and *squeeze* and press the choreboy between the chopstick and the hard, flat surface.

I pack it as firmly as I can, having never gotten it so tight that air won't come through easily (just be careful not to break the stem!). The 3-inch piece of choreboy screen flattens down to about 1/2 inch and is firmly nestled against the walls of the pipe on all sides. It should require a fair little bit of pressure to slide it down the pipe; it should never slide freely or easily. This, of course, is all after you've burned the hell out of it over the stove to get the manufacturer's chemicals off of it and also to make it more malleable an shapeable. If your question is about density, specifically, it should be quite firm.

If you can see light through it or can easily squeeze and re-shape it, try again. My choreboy screens are packed so tightly that even if you continue squeezing it, it is impossible to compress it any further. Even when it's THIS tightly-compressed, air moves through it as though it weren't there and the precious crack oil gets vapourized nicely and evenly this way.

--muthaloda MycoloTeur 18.06.04 14:25. 'muthaloda' wrote in message news:9e42065a.182bc66b@posting.google.com. >>>were successful at getting that 'swirling motion' vortex-dealie going >>>while cooling the rock in the microwaved shotglass. >>>>>>Yeah, that was this past Friday.

The whole process worked pretty >>well-- DEFINITELY BETTER than trying to use a metal spoon and lighter. >>>>I've got most the instructions I made for myself beforehand annotated, >>and when I get the chance in the next couple days, I'll go through and >>'final draft' them to reflect what I experienced actually trying it. >>Oh that's very cool! I am sure many people really appreciate your >taking the time to do so, and spelling out the nuisances you >encountered. This seems to be the most important part since I think we >can compile a pretty good set of instructions for what to do-- what >NOT to do however, is a different story. >>>The most important things I can point out are that you've GOT TO LET >>IT COOL OFF between each microwave cycle.

I don't think on my most >>successful batch I ever got the shotglass hot enough I couldn't hold >>it with my bare hand. And it takes SEVERAL CYCLES. Don't get >>discouraged or impatient when you can't actually see much happening. >>When it does start to crystalize--like a baking soda mess sticking to >>the sides--that's when you kind of 'stir it back up' so that Note two things here. Don't assume those numbers are anything close to gospel.

They depend almost entirely on 3 factors. The microwave wattage, the volume of water, and the volume of dope. Ultimately, the number of cycles, and how things settle out will depend a lot on how well you got the proportions of dope to soda, and the total volume of dope you are basing.

Second, if you have a bunch of soda in the glass then you used too much. Better to start with not enough and work your way up until the soda stops generating precipitate. One way to help this process that I forgot to mention in the email exchange is to pre-disolve the soda in hot water. That way you know when you add it to the water/hydrochloride mixture, that any precipitate is freebase.

Basically, you just add a little at a time until no precipitate forms. THEN you finally want to really heat it all up and get it to conglomerate into a lump. Finally, note that shot glass is really only suitable for small volumes. If you want to do a whole eighball, or quart use a mason jar. They also have the added benefit that they don't tend to break as easily as regular jars or drinking glasses etc. It is also a very good idea to keep a bowl under your container at all times. That way if you do accidentally break it the water/dope pour into the bowl where you can recover them instead of going on the floor, or bottom of the microwave.

>>Oh this is good info!! I am sure that's where I've gone wrong in the >past! I've always thought I should have gotten back a rock that was >more proportional to the amount of coke going in. That depends on how much of what you started with was actually coke. If its pure, you should get back something just a few percent smaller than what you started with. (The salt is technically an impurity and when you free the base, the salt is left behind reducing the mass of the drug but, in effect, making it purer.

In otherwords, in this sense, 100% pure cocaine hydrochloride is not as pure as 100% pure cocaine base. >>>>>Actually, I'd like stem insights too. This was my first experience >>using a straight shooter, I can't help but think I never got the >>density of the filter right. I already addressed this in the email, but muthaloda's advice is right on. If (as you mentioned) you had trouble inhaling through the empty screen, then it was probably too much screen. Normally, its pretty hard to over-compress a fresh screen of the correct size such that its hard to hit.

They can become over compressed over the course of smoking. After heating and cooling, and repacking them, they often get over compressed. When they do stretch em out and then repack.

Just make sure they don't have dope on them when you do because stretching them out/handing them will waste most of it. Also, its a good idea to re-burn them before repacking them, to get rid of crap from your hands and any deposits left from the dope. And the screens you mentioned still having can be dealt with two different ways. If there is really a lot of dope on them, you can boil them and slowy stretch them out in the water with a fork. Once the dope is boiled off the screen remove it and re-swirl. Don't bother doing this unless you have a few of them, or if they are really large.

You can also 'very carefully stretch them out and repack them loosely. Then just smoke it off. Love and Light coraly.@gmail.com 20.11.16 02:14. On Thursday, May 27, 2004 at 5:10:43 PM UTC-4, Astro Jetson wrote: >Howdy All, >>I've been lurking in this group intermittently for quite some time >now.

To introduce myself, my preferred party poisons are (individually >and not mixed) meth and decent MDMA (which doesn't seem to be >fashionable around my part of the country now. Eh, it'll come back >in vogue some day, LOL).

>>Anyhow, while I can get fairly decent ice around here-- actually a >hour from here, and I've even got a couple good glass pipes tucked >away, it's just such a production to deal with the strange social >circle I have to get it through. One of those deals wherein I have >to maintain a 'superficial friendship' with my fairly dependable >connection (not a dealer) who doesn't seem to want to leave once he >makes the delivery. Also, in that my partying is limited to a few days >each month (when I'm either out of town, have my place to myself, or >feel like killing a day off at home during the day while I have my >house to myself) meth's kind of hard to manage [i.e. 'Odd, ya know, >you haven't slept in a couple days and you're yellow somehow' my >non-partying life partner would think and go tisk-tisk. On the >inside that is, LOL. We're pleasantly dysfunctional that way].

>>I've had my affairs with both Meth (out west, for about a year 10 >years back) and with coke freebasing/making crack (for about 6 months >5 years ago). Nowadays I can't imagine the daily-every-daily deal >(though I'm sure with the right circumstances that could change).

>Basically right now, I keep my knuckles from turning white by taking a >party break about once a month. Though I wouldn't endorse it for >anybody else, that system's worked really well for about 2 years now >for me. >>OK, that's my background information. >>A few months ago I stumbled onto a really DECENT coke connection for >really GREAT coke (that nearly iridescent fish scale kind). >Furthermore, the connection/dealer is to-the-point, a nice enough >fellow, and real damn honest about the distribution-chain to the >extent I can specify 'raw' and get it totally pure (I mean, I rather >pay just a little more for 8-ball he has to get higher up the chain, >ya know?).

Anyhow, I don't particularly care for snorting coke, but I >LOVE smoking it. >>Back a few years ago, the guy I was with and I got pretty good and >cooking it up, although looking back, we probably wasted a lot. These >past couple months, I've gotten a couple sixteenths and have been >fairly successful at making OK rocks. (The method we used back when >was to dip the oil off the water.

Which leads me to believe that >even though it was stronger, we probably scotched A LOT of it onto the >spoon). >>Anyhow, here on my own, I've been getting not-quite as strong rocks by >being more patience in making it (although not as reserved with >letting it dry, LOL). >>OK, I'm ALMOST getting to the point of this post, LOL:-). >>I've occasionally read that you can make it utilizing a shot glass and >a microwave. I'd love to try that, but I'm honestly terrified of >destroying 1/2 my next stash. >>My next scheduled 'party days' are two weeks from today (budget, >classes, privacy, and no-drug-test-risk all converge on 10 June). I've >RESOLVED (and I'm stating it publicly) to cook it on the 9th and give >it a whole day to dry.

As I'll be able to party after classes on the >10th. >>My preferred (and only available) way to smoke it using a pot pipe >with some cigarette ashes.

I've got a good metal one I can retrieve >the resin from after the rocks are gone. No glass stem here, no way to >get one, or desire to (unless someone here makes a good argument for >it I've not realized).

>>>As I mentioned, I've been using a spoon and a lighter (I do HAVE a >torch for my meth pipe, but it burns too hot). This heating a table >measuring spoon up and letting it cool little by little again and >again is somewhat tedious. Also, it's messy, I end up with a black >suit covered spoon (the torch is clean burning, but it too hot and >fast), it gets all over my desk AND me, and I somehow always manage to >mildly burn my finger.

(Of course, that usually happens after I've >made a couple hits and decide to make more AFTER I've done 'em, LOL.) >I've never spilled a spoonful, but that's overdue to happen. >>This brings me to the whole point of delurking finally and saying hi >to the group.

(Finally, eh?) >>I have some questions and am soliciting any advice on successfully >making an 8-ball of GREAT product into dry rocks. I'm leaning towards >doing this microwave method if I can get feedback and the benefit of >someone's experience here. Actually, microwave or not, I'd like to >skip the spoon altogether. >>First off, I read something regarding a 'vial' and 'swishing it >around' as to 'vortex' the forming rock into the center. Does that >refer to one of those little vials poppers are usually in (also the >bottom half of a larger bump-bullet?). I'm thinking a shot glass with >saran wrap on top is going to be more manageable.

Of course I'm just >making guess at this point-- seems to me it'd be easier to get the >result out of. Not to mention more easy to hold and swish. >>The most pertinent articles I found are here (both google archives of >posts here I think): >>>>and >>>>>The second article is pretty much what I'd go by if I were trying this >without starting a thread here. But notice at the end, it states: >>'To smoke the mix. You need a glass pipe. You can't spoke it in a >pot pipe.' >>I don't get it.

Theoretically, if I top the screen on my all metal >pot pipe with packed down cigarette ashes, then partially melt down my >'chunk', THEN smoke it, it's the same thing right? I mean that what >I've BEEN doing all these years. (here's where a good argument for a >different pipe would come LOL.) >>Anyhow, sorry to have made this so lengthy, just figured I should >delurk in style:-) Also, if this is a thread that marches on for >awhile, I'll have some people to be disappointed in me for NOT letting >it dry like I have EVERY INTENTION of this time. (I'd love to just be >able to get cracked up for a change and not worry with cooking it and >skitzoid cleaning up in the process (I get worried I'm cracked up and >left some spoon or something laying out on the coffee table or >something LOL). >>>>--Astro. I was the master professor back in the 80s.

You definitely are wasting a lot of it using the methods you are using, and leaving the coagulant mixed into the rock which makes it soft. To cook up hard solid rocks that you can throw at the wall and they won't break, you need a pyrex vial. The type that have lids. The small ones are usually brown and the bigger ones are clear.

Dump in enough coke to cover the bottom and thats it. Put about 1/4 that amount of baking soda then add water that goes just a little bit above the height of the powder. Heat it up slowly while swirling the water around the vial. Once it starts turning to oil stop the heat. Keep swirling it around til the rock hardens up. As it hardens, move the vial so that the rock bounces from side to side.

When it looks hard, cover the top of the vial with your finger and shake it hard so the rock bangs onto the sides. This is what makes it hard as rock. Then with top covered, run the vial under cold water. Must be pyrex cuz glass cracks with heat.

The method will give you solid pure rocks.

Lankenau, Ph.D., is an assistant professor in the Department of Sociomedical Sciences at Columbia University, Mailman School of Public Health. He conducts research on hidden populations, high-risk youth, and out-of-treatment drug users. Clatts, Ph.D., is the director of the Institute for International Research on Youth at Risk (IRYAR) at National Development and Research Institutes, Inc. His principal area of interest is in community epidemiology and the development of community-based public health programs. Goldsamt, Ph.D., is deputy director of the Institute for International Research on Youth at Risk (IRYAR) at National Development and Research Institutes, Inc.

His primary area of interest is public health research with high risk youth populations, with an emphasis on the initiation of risk behaviors. Welle, Ph.D., director of youth and Community Development Core of the Institute for International Research on Youth at Risk (IRYAR) at National Development and Research Institutes, Inc. She is currently conducting a longitudinal ethnographic study of how the AIDS epidemic informs adolescent development and identity dynamics among youth. This article examines the behavioral practices and health risks associated with preparing crack cocaine for injection. Using an ethno-epidemiological approach, injection drug users (n=38) were recruited between 1999 and 2000 from public settings in New York City and Bridgeport, Connecticut and responded to a semistructured interview focusing on crack injection initiation and their most recent crack injection. Study findings indicate that methods of preparing crack for injection were impacted by a transforming agent, heat applied to the “cooker,” heroin use, age of the injector, and geographic location of the injector. The findings suggest that crack injectors use a variety of methods to prepare crack, which may carry different risks for the transmission of bloodborne pathogens.

In particular, crack injection may be an important factor in the current HIV epidemic. Introduction Crack cocaine was first reported as an injectable drug in the United States in Chicago in 1996 (), and crack cocaine injection has since been reported in smaller cities, including Bridgeport, Connecticut (), Austin, Texas (), and Dayton, Ohio () as well as San Francisco (), Washington, D.C. (), and Boston (). The emerging practice of injecting crack cocaine merits particular attention since injection drug users (IDUs) of powder cocaine have been shown to be at greater risk for HIV infection than heroin injectors ().

Despite the accumulating evidence that crack cocaine is being injected in cities across the United States, no studies have offered detailed descriptions of the practices used to prepare crack for intravenous injection – practices which may place IDUs at increased risk for the transmission of bloodborne pathogens, such as HIV, BBV, and HCV. The fact that crack cocaine can be injected intravenously surprises many including experienced IDUs, drug treatment providers, and drug researchers – since crack was invented in the mid-1980s as a cheap, smokable form of cocaine ().

However, some drug users prefer injection as a mode of administrating crack since injection often increases the intensity and duration of a crack high (). Additionally, the greater availability and lower costs associated with crack cocaine make it an alternative for IDUs who inject powder cocaine. In contrast to crack, powder cocaine has been injected for over a century, although initially for medicinal purposes and for the treatment of morphine and alcohol addiction (). Crack is a combination of cocaine hydrochloride, baking soda, and other adulterants which gives rise to a rock-like substance ().

Consequently, IDUs who seek to inject crack are faced with the problem of transforming the rock into a soluble form that can be pulled into a hypodermic syringe. Previous studies (;; ) have reported that injectors convert crack into a solution by using acids such as lemon juice and vinegar, but these reports do not specify the particular drug preparation details. In contrast to crack, powder cocaine is water soluble () and can be prepared for injection without an acid. Rather, powder cocaine is typically prepared by adding water to powder and drawing the drug solution into a syringe. Hence, compared to powder cocaine, crack requires a different set of preparation practices to convert the drug into a soluble form.

Drug preparation practices are an important component of both HIV risk and protective behaviors. While the sharing of syringes has been identified as a primary means of transmitting HIV-1, HBV, and HCV (), ancillary injection paraphernalia, such as “cookers,” water, and filters have been found to be additional sources of risk for bloodborne pathogens ().

For instance, cookers, the small bottle-cap type vessels used to prepare drugs, are often the most efficient containers to share drugs among injectors. Consequently, a cooker may be contaminated with HIV when it touches other paraphernalia used to prepare or inject drugs, such as a syringe, a filter, or water. Recent ethnographic research demonstrated that cookers may also play a unique protective role in reducing exposure to bloodborne pathogens among IDUs., who observed injectors preparing different forms of heroin, found that injectors of tar heroin commonly heated the cooker (also containing water) with a flame to transform the resin-like substance into an injectable solution, whereas injectors of powder heroin typically did not heat the cooker prior to injection. Laboratory studies modeling these observations revealed that heating a cooker introduced with HIV-1 isolates for 15 seconds or more reduced HIV-1 viability below detectable levels. Hence, an IDU who applies a flame to a cooker for 15 seconds or more may deactivate HIV contained in the cooker prior to pulling the drug solution into a syringe. Additionally, this research highlights how different forms of the same drug – powder vs.

Tar heroin – impact upon drug preparation practices, which may ultimately have implications for exposure to bloodborne pathogens. In this article, we describe how crack – a hardened form of powder cocaine –is prepared for injection, the drug solutions injected, and the injection paraphernalia utilized based upon ethnographic interviews with samples of injectors living in New York City and Bridgeport, Connecticut. Additionally, we provide data on crack injection initiation, which may help to locate the emergence of crack injection as a new form of injection drug use. Methods This project applied an ethno-epidemiological approach to the study of drug use and health (;; ). An ethno-epidemiological approach combines traditional epidemiological concerns for “agent,” “host,” and “environment” with an ethnographic focus on “meaning” and “context” (Agar, 1996).

The data reported here were collected during the Phase I Community Assessment Process (CAP) () of a two-phased ethnographic study examining crack injection practices in nine cities across North America–Los Angeles, Tucson, Chicago, St. Louis, Toronto, Washington, D.C., Atlanta, Bridgeport, and New York. In this article, we focus on specific findings from two cities: Bridgeport and New York. The aims of the CAP were to gather information about the general prevalence of crack injection, identify subpopulations where crack injection occurred, and describe variability in the behavioral practices used to prepare and inject crack. We accomplished these objectives by interviewing community members and crack injectors in both New York and Bridgeport. Community members and professionals who interacted with crack injectors, such as staff at needle exchanges, drug treatment centers, and health departments, provided information about the general location of crack injectors in each city. We used this community mapping information to conduct targeted participant observation in parks and along city streets, and to conduct informal interviews with crack injectors at each venue.

Ultimately, the combined mapping information and participant observation revealed variability in crack cocaine quality and form, drug preparation practices, and injector demographic characteristics. These dimensions of crack injection were further pursued in the development of the Key Participant Interview (KPI) – a 30-minute, semistructured interview focusing on crack injection initiation and the most recent crack injection event, including drug solutions injected and drug preparation methods employed. The primary enrollment requirement for a KPI was that an individual had injected crack within the past 60 days. Additionally, screening questions were used to ensure that injectors had recently prepared crack cocaine for injection as opposed to powder cocaine, for instance. Field notes and KPI data were recorded using pen and paper and converted into Microsoft Word files following each day of fieldwork.

Using participant observation and chain referral sampling methods, the lead author recruited 23 crack injectors (n=23) from a park and street setting in New York's Greenwich Village during 1999 and 2000. Additionally, 15 crack injectors (n=1 5) were recruited from two needle exchange sites in Bridgeport, Connecticut during 2000 – a public housing complex and a primary avenue in downtown Bridgeport.

In New York, all injectors who met the enrollment and screening criteria agreed to participate in the study. In Bridgeport, one injector who met the study criteria refused to participate.

Each interviewee received $10 for their participation in the study. All research procedures and protocols were approved by an Institutional Review Board (IRB). Throughout most of this report, we aggregate the two smaller samples from New York (n=23) and Bridgeport (n=15) into a combined larger sample (n=38).

We use the combined larger sample as the basis for our analysis, which is principally focused on describing variability across samples among crack injectors. Comparisons between injectors in New York and Bridgeport are not a primary analytical focus because of the small number of crack injectors interviewed in each city. However, we do present several meaningful contrasts between samples as a way to highlight variability among crack injectors. Additionally, similar to the formative ethnographic work reported from our other research studies () we only report descriptive information and statistics in this article – no individually quoted accounts of crack injection practices or behaviors are provided – since interviews were not tape recorded during this phase of the study.

Results presents demographic characteristics of the two smaller samples of crack injectors and the combined larger sample. Compared to the New York sample, the most notable differences are that the Bridgeport sample is typically older (40 years old vs. 30 years old), Latino (73% vs. 4%), engaged in informal labor (53% vs.

17%), initiated crack injection at an older age (36 years old vs. 27 years old), and more recently injected crack (93% “past day” vs.

17% “past day”). In the combined sample, the typical crack injector is 36 years old, white, male, supported through informal illegal and legal activities, initiated injection drug use in late teens with heroin, initiated crack injection in his early 30s, and commonly injected crack within the past week. The following results are based upon the combined sample of 38 crack injectors.

Sample Demographics presents the year of crack injection initiation and the age at crack injection initiation. Indicates that four injectors initiated crack injection as early as 1990 – the same year that crack injection was first reported in England (). This finding corroborates other reports that drug injectors in the United States first began experimenting with injecting crack in the early 1990s (). Additionally, the majority of injectors initiated crack injection since 1998 – particularly in 1999 and 2000 – indicating that crack injection continues to be an emerging practice in these two cities. Crack Injection Initiation (N=38) also presents age cohorts at crack injection initiation.

The fact that many of the injectors initiated crack injection at a relatively young age – initiation began between the ages of 16 and 25 years old for 10 injectors – suggests that the practice of injecting crack is not limited to long-time, older injectors (). Rather, initiation into crack injection may begin at the same young age that other drugs are first injected, such as heroin or cocaine. For instance, one injector reported injecting crack in 1990 when he was 16 years old – soon after he first began injecting cocaine. Significantly, only one injector initiated their injection drug use career with crack.

Rather, the vast majority of injectors in the sample initiated with heroin, transitioned into injecting cocaine, and eventually began shooting crack. The diverse age span at crack injection initiation depicted by, including one 64-year-old man who initiated in 1999, indicates that injectors initiated crack injection at a range of ages. Additionally, the interview data indicated that situational factors, such as cost, quality, and availability of crack over powder cocaine, often impacted upon decisions to initiate crack injection. Presents crack preparation methods used by injectors during their most recent injection of crack. Our analyses revealed three primary factors involved in preparing crack for injection: adding some agent, typically an acid, to neutralize adulterants comprising the crack; the absence or application of heat to the cooker; and the absence or addition of heroin to the crack solution.

For instance, three injectors used fresh lemon juice to neutralize the crack, combined the solution with heroin, and heated the entire solution in a cooker with a lighter or match. Crack Preparation Methods (N=38) Regarding “agents” used by injectors to neutralize crack, readily available household items such as fresh lemon juice (n=12), lemon concentrate (n=5), and white vinegar (n=8) were the most commonly employed. Ascorbic acid (n=8) was only used by injectors in Bridgeport, who received it in powder form from the Bridgeport Needle Exchange as a harm reduction agent. Ascorbic acid is regarded as less harmful to veins compared to acids such as lemon juice and vinegar. None of the Bridgeport sample used lemon juice – only ascorbic acid and white vinegar. Among the New York sample who used an acid to transform crack into solution, all used fresh lemon juice or concentrate except for one injector who added white vinegar.

Regarding “heat and heroin combinations,” less than half of crack injectors (n=l 7) – “heat/heroin” (n=5) plus “heat/no heroin” (n=12) categories – applied a flame from a lighter or match to the cooker. While the duration of heat applied to a cooker was not recorded, this is a protective crack preparation practice since heating a cooker for 15 seconds or longer may deactivate HIV (). Among those injectors applying heat, most also added an acid, such as fresh lemon juice, concentrated lemon, ascorbic acid, or white vinegar. Injectors using ascorbic acid and acids from a bottle, such as white vinegar and concentrated lemon juice, also added water to dilute the concentrate. One injector transformed crack into solution applying only heat and water. Given the somewhat insoluble nature of crack, we hypothesize that this injector began with a more granular form of crack or some other atypical, more soluble form of crack.

Five injectors applying heat to the cooker, including four who used an acid, also added heroin to the crack solution – a combination known as a “speedball.” More than half of the injectors (n=21) – “no heat/no heroin” (n=8) and “no heat/ heroin” (n=13) – did not apply heat to the cooker. Rather, most converted the crack into a solution using some form of lemon juice, ascorbic acid, or vinegar.

Thirteen of these injectors added heroin to the crack and acid mixture. Another four injectors used neither acid nor heat but rather converted crack using somewhat unique preparation practices. The first of these less commonly reported methods is called “washing” the crack (n=2). During this process, a rock of crack is placed in a small glass bottle, known as a “cooker bottle,” along with a small amount of water and baking soda.

Heat is applied to the bottle, thereby separating the adulterants from the rock and leaving behind a gel-like substance containing a concentrated cocaine-based solution. The gel is then extracted by pouring it through a screen and placing it in a cooker (but not heated during the two events reported) before being injected.

The other less common method reported, which we refer to as an “alcohol melt process” (n=2), consists of placing the crack on a mirror and then dabbing it with rubbing alcohol. The rock is then lit while tilting the mirror, which causes the cocaine to melt and ooze down the mirror. After extinguishing the flame, the crack remains are scraped and finely chopped with a razor blade and then are deposited into a cooker (but not heated during the two events reported) before being injected. Significantly, the crack preparation methods employed by injectors varied by age. The majority of the injectors (11 out of 12) who used fresh lemon juice to transform crack were younger than 35 years old, whereas the majority of injectors (seven out of eight) who used white vinegar were older than 35. Also, the majority of the injectors who applied heat to a cooker (10 out of 17) were under 35 years old.

Lastly, all of the injectors who either “washed” the crack or employed the “alcohol melt process” (four out of four) were older than 45 years old. Hence, in addition to living in different geographic regions, such as New York or Bridgeport, belonging to different injection cohorts may expose injectors to diverse crack preparation practices. In particular, older injectors may bring a range of knowledge and techniques from other drug using experiences to a new practice, such as crack injection. Also points to the fact that nearly half of the sample (n=1 8) – categories “heat/heroin” (n=5) and “no heat/heroin” (n=1 3) – combined crack and heroin in the same shot during their most recent injection of crack. “Speedballing” crack and heroin offered users a boosted injection for as little as $5 per rock of crack. An additional six injectors (n=6) shot heroin by itself either before or after their most recent crack injection. Furthermore, the interview data revealed that the entire sample (38 out of 38) regularly used natural or synthetic opiates – 34 injected heroin, two sniffed heroin, and two were on methadone maintenance.

Hence, crack was commonly injected in the context of opiate use. Discussion A potential limitation to the study is the relatively small sample (n=38) upon which the findings are based. Additionally, combining two samples of crack injectors from different populations of injection drug users makes it difficult to generalize the findings across the study. Small, purposeful samples, which are common to qualitative research, however, are particularly useful when the research is focused on documenting an emerging phenomenon (). Towards this end, a primary component of documenting a new phenomenon is to maximize the identification of variability on the behaviors of interests, such as crack preparation methods, which we attempted to accomplish by combining two diverse samples of crack injectors. Our findings indicate that crack injectors employed a wide range of practices and materials to prepare crack for injection. When considering three key variables involved in preparing crack for injection – the absence or presence of an agent, heat, or heroin – we uncovered 16 different crack solutions out of 38 injectors.

This finding of wide variability in crack preparation methods indicates that the practice of injecting crack had not become routinized across the sample of injectors in either city. Rather, crack preparation practices were innovative depending upon drug form, situational factors, and available materials. However, the use of certain preparation practices within specific geographic regions, e.g., using lemon juice in New York vs. Ascorbic acid and vinegar in Bridgeport, indicates that an emerging body of drug preparation knowledge may develop from and be disseminated within local injection groups. The wide variability in crack preparation practices also suggests potentially different risks of exposure to bloodborne pathogens among IDUs who inject crack. Our findings indicate that the age of the injector and geographic region may be important factors influencing drug preparation practices. In particular, younger crack injectors may be adopting preparation practices, such as applying heat to a cooker, that have been shown to be protective against infectious diseases ().

It is unknown how acids, such a lemon juice, ascorbic acid, or vinegar, impact upon HIV viability in a cooker. Laboratory research (which will occur in the next phase of our study) is necessary to model varying drug preparation methods of crack solutions and to assess the effects of acid on the transmission of HIV, HBV, and HCV. Furthermore, the impact of acids on vein health should also be examined in future studies. Our interviews revealed that heroin and other opiate use were pervasive among this sample – both at injection initiation and during the most recent crack injection. This is an important finding since it suggests that IDUs often injected crack to supplement heroin use. Future studies should compare two types of crack injectors – those who primarily inject crack with injectors who mainly shoot heroin – to understand whether preparation practices and injection risk behaviors differ between the two types of injectors.

In this current study, it is difficult to discern whether IDUs who injected crack faced unique HIV risks above and beyond the risks associated with heroin injection alone. It is possible that some of the preparation practices associated with crack injection, such as heating a cooker or adding an acid to a cooker, may actually reduce the risks of transmitting bloodborne pathogens during injection events. Pathophysiology Of Heart Disease Leonard Lilly Pdf Writer. Currently, it is unknown how the risk or protective practices associated with crack injection may interact with the injection practices common to heroin injection. Conclusion Given the unknown impact of crack preparation practices on the risks for exposure to bloodborne pathogens, crack injection may be an important factor in the current HIV epidemic.

While drug users have been injecting crack as early as 1990, crack injection is a hidden practice since few research studies or drug treatment providers ask injectors specifically about injecting crack. The fact that both young and older injectors initiated crack injection throughout the 1990s – increasingly in the late 1990s among this sample – indicates that crack injection remains an emerging practice that may expose new cohorts of injectors to infectious diseases. These findings suggest that HIV service providers, outreach workers, and researchers should ask crack users about mode of administration since smoking is generally assumed. Without more detailed inquiries into the modes of administrating crack, crack injection is likely to remain a largely hidden practice. Consequently, IDUs who inject crack will fail to be identified and targeted for interventions designed to reduce the risk of transmitting bloodborne pathogens and other harms associated with preparation practices particular to crack injection. Recasting the “ethno” in “epidemiology” Medical Anthropology.

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