Electrical House Wiring Installation Pdf
Simple Electrical Wiring Diagrams Basic Light Switch Diagram - (pdf, 42kb). This light switch wiring diagram page will help you to master one of the most basic. Learn More About Us (home house repair do it yourself guide book room finishing plumbing wiring outlets switches power framing drywall doors paneling. Electrical installation handbook. Protection, control and electrical devices. General aspects. Protection and control devices. Electrical devices. Transformers, devices, measuring instruments, protection devices and wiring materials. The following. Domestic appliances and household electronic equipment.
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website. Guide to types of electrical receptacles (wall 'outlets' or 'wall plugs'): How to choose the right type of electrical receptacle when adding or replacing a wall outlet in a building. Here we describe matching 15-Amp receptacles to 15-Amp circuits, 20-Amp receptacles to 20-Amp circuits, two-wire receptacles where no ground is present, GFCI and AFCI electrical receptacles, and the proper electrical box to hold and mount these devices. This article series describes how to choose, locate, and wire an electrical receptacle in a home.
Electrical receptacles (also called electrical outlets or 'plugs' or 'sockets') are simple devices that are easy to install, but there are details to get right if you want to be safe. Choose the Proper Electrical Junction Box When Adding a Receptacle • The proper sized and type of junction box must be used to house the electrical receptacle, must be properly secured in the wall, and must be located at the proper height from the floor.
• The National Electrical Code Article 314 contains complete details and tables of electrical box sizes in dimensions and cubic inches and should be consulted for complete accuracy because the actual size of the box required, in cubic inches, depends on the number of wires that will be within that enclosure. We give some basic electrical box size examples just below. • If the junction box is too small you face several problems such as crowding which forces wires to be jammed and bent into the box, increasing the chance of a loose connection or damaged wiring, and worse, arcing. • If the clearance between the metal box and other live electrical parts is too small, arcs and short circuits could occur, as we depict in this sketch courtesy of. Article Contents • • • • • • Table of Electrical Box Sizes vs Number of Wires Allowed. NEC Table 314.16 (A) Metal Electrical Boxes for Devices Box Dimensions (Inches) & Trade Name Minimum Cu. Max # Conductors AWG 14 Max # Conductors AWG 12 3 x 2 x 1 1/2' Device Box 7.5 cu.
NEC 314.16(B) Electrical Box Volume Required Per Conductor (wire) Conductor size (wire size) Free space within the box for each conductor No. 14 2 cubic inches No. 12 2.25 cubic inches No. 10 2.5 cubic inches Notes: This is an excerpt pertinent to wiring electrical receptacles and switches; other wire sized and applications are given in the source NEC. Typical Electrical Boxes for Single Receptacles, Switches, or Splices Typical electrical junction boxes used for receptacle installation to accommodates a single receptacle are 2' x 4' metal or plastic boxes of varying depth.
Choose a deeper box if you have more than the minimum number of wires entering & leaving the box or it will be over-crowded and may violate building electrical codes. Below are an older style steel electrical boxes nailed to wood framing in a building. The box is carrying six wires in total: two 'hot', two neutral, and two grounds.
At above right in addition to aluminum wiring hazards the box is overcrowded. It's likely to be permitted and safe to install a larger sized junction box than you need for an outlet or switch or wire splice, but you may need to purchase a special adapter-cover for the box in order to properly secure an electrical outlet therein. Installing a junction box that is too small is illegal and unsafe. Typical 4-inch Electrical Boxes used for Single (or more often) Duplex Electrical Receptacles Below-left we show a typical 4-inch metal junction box, and below-right a common and deeper plastic junction box. Electrical junction boxes are required for all wall plugs? Reader Question: Do I really need an electrical box to put a new wall plug in?
- Thomas Reply: Yes, Thomas, electrical devices such as switches and receptacles (wall plugs) need to be mounted in a code-approved plastic or metal receptacle (box) for fire safety as well as to assure that the device is mechanically secure. In fact when you purchase a 'wall plug' you'll see that its metal mounting ears and screws are spaced and designed to connect to an electrical box. Watch out: while it's physically possible to install a wall receptacle or 'plug' without using an enclosure, doing so is dangerous, risking fire and shock, and of course, it's also illegal in virtually every building code jurisdiction.
Take a look at our photograph at left - a fire was contained within this electrical junction box. Had the box been omitted there is a good chance the fire would have spread to the building itself.
When we hear a question like this it makes me very afraid for you and for future building occupants - as amateur electrical wiring is dangerous. Details about how to wire up an electrical receptacle are at - where to connect black, white, red, green, ground wire. Gang Boxes - built-up electrical boxes for more space Gang boxes are steel electrical boxes with removable sides and screw fittings that permit multiple metal boxes to be joined together to obtain more space. As we discuss at, Some electrical boxes installed as original work are stamped out of a single piece of steel and cannot be expanded.
Others called 'gangable' metallic boxes such as by (Thomas & Betts - Steel City Brand) installed as original work included side plates that could be removed to install a sidecar extension. Gangable electrical boxes can be expanded by adding another box along the open (away from the stud or joist) side of the existing box (requiring a larger wall opening), or by adding a 'side car' extension that hides behind the wall surface. Sketch at left: illustrates the removable side-plates on a gang-type electrical box. Boxes of this type can be expanded along their open side - the side that has not been already fastened to a stud or joist.
To add an electrical box extension you must have access to the top or bottom screw on the open side of the box to remove the side plate - that's where you'd add on a second gangable box as an extension or a side-car hidden box extension. Watch out: it will be almost impossible to extend an original-work metallic box size using an extension without cutting open and thus damaging the wall at one side of the box. However in my OPINION drywall repairs are trivial compared with the cost of complete re-wiring with all copper in a building with aluminum wired branch circuits. Gang Box Extenders for More Wiring Space In addition to screwing multiple gang boxes together to construct a large 'new work' electrical installation, gang boxes can be extended behind the wall to obtain a small amount of additional wiring space: illustrated below. At above left is a single 'gang box' steel electrical box. At above right I've removed the left side of the gang box and I have installed a steel 'side car' or 'box extender' (yellow arrow in the photo below) to increase the cubic inches of wiring space in this electrical box.
These box extenders can be used to add a small amount of wiring space that can bring an otherwise too-small gang box up to code without having to cut a larger opening in the building wall. You'll notice that the box extender is shaped to be recessed to slip behind the thickness of the plaster or drywall.
At below right we see a modern GFCI electrical receptacle shoehorned into a too-small gang-box that has been extended with a box extender or 'sidecar' in order to try to include AlumiConn™ aluminum-to-copper pigtailing connectors. See where we discuss all of the approaches to obtaining more wiring or device space in electrical boxes. Where wall depth permits, a better approach where more wiring space is needed is to remove the existing electrical box and install a deeper box in the same opening. Electrical box extensions & supplies for more wiring space or increased cubic inches of electrical box space • Thomas & Betts (ABB Group) Steel City electrical boxes, Thomas & Betts Corporation 8155 T&B Boulevard Memphis, TN 38125 Phone: 901-252-5000, Phone: 800-816-7809 Fax: 800-816-7810 Email: elec_custserv@tnb.com Website: • Home Depot stores • Loews Building Supply stores • Local electrical contracting suppliers in your area • U.S. 5,117,996, June 2, 1992 describes an electrical box extension submitted by William J. McShane, Philadelphia, PA. McShane patented a number of electrical box extension designs to accommodate wall thickness changes as well as space additions.
• Danbury toP&M Electric supply (29 Federal Road, Danbury CT 06810, Tel: 203-744-7445), The RAC535 X-cube adapter.5cui steel sidecar electrical box space extender retails for $1.79 and a RAC519 2 12/D NMC gang-type electrical switch steel box retails for $2.45. New Work Compared with Old Work Electrical Boxes - Old Workboxes New Work Electrical Box Examples Normally a 'new work' plastic electrical box installed during new construction is either nailed to the building framing (shown below) or if it needs to be spaced away from a stud or joist in a wall or ceiling it may be supported by a bracket that is in turn nailed to the building framing. Examples of Old Work Electrical Boxes & Methods of Installation When an electrical circuit and electrical boxes are being added to an existing structure wires are snaked through building cavities to the desired fixture location and an old-work electrical box or 'junction box' is installed to contain electrical splices and devices. Both metal and plastic old-work electrical boxes are available and there is a variety of clips, clamps, and other devices used to secure electrical boxes in a wall or ceiling when the box cannot be conveniently nailed or screwed directly to the structure.
[Click to enlarge any image] At above left is a steel gang box with mounting hardware to permit old-work installation: those metal brackets at the top and bottom of the box can be screwed to a wall surface. In my opinion I'd prefer to see this box used in a wood or paneled wall or on a plaster wall on wood lath rather than on simple drywall as I worry that in a receptacle installation someone may find they pull the whole installation off of the drywall when removing a wall plug.
At above right we illustrate thin steel clips (colored orange) that have been used (with considerable care) to secure a steel gang box in a drywall or plaster wall (adapted from Steel City products). Adding these clips can make the box far more secure in the wall than if we only use the brackets shown in the left and center illustrations. At above left and center are two rectangular old-work switch or receptacle boxes.
At above left is a Carlon 25 cubic inch 2-gang plastic electrical box. At above center is an old-work plastic Zip Box suitable for a single electrical switch or receptacle. The blue ear shown at the electrical Zip Box top at right (orange arrow) is pulled against the interior surface of the wall plaster or drywall as the installation screw (green arrow) is turned. At above right, using a Carlon round 81 cubic-inch oldwork box as an example, we show the mounting screws that cause the swing-clamps to open and then pinch the box against plaster or drywall through which the box has been mounted (red arrows).
Download Naruto Shippuden Episode 206 Sub Indo Mp4 on this page. The purple circle and smaller oval show us where the device-mounting screws (receptacle, switch, light-weight lamp fixture bracket) will be secured. You can see that the three swing-clamps for this oldwork box are in the open position but they'd be moved to a closed position to insert the box through a round opening cut in drywall or plaster.
Watch out: As we discuss at, the round blue Carlon electrical box at above right includes a metal grounding lug shown in our larger purple circle. This Carlon # B618RP-UPC is a 4 1/4' diameter electrical box that has a UL 514C listing, meets NEMA OS-2, and is specifically indicated by the manufacturer as not for fixture support in the ceiling. That PLASTIC ELECTRICAL BOX REPAIR article illustrates a failure where this box was used to hang a ceiling light fixture. The light began to fall out of the ceiling. Below is another old-work plastic electrical box being installed in a ceiling.
Shown above, the rotating swing-clamps on the plastic old work box are open for illustration (yellow arrow, photo at above left). The swing clamps are pressed flat against the box sides (red arrow at above right) as it is pushed through its mounting hole into the ceiling or wall cavity. As the box mounting screws (green arrow) are turned the plastic ears rotate open and then are pulled tight against the drywall or plaster ceiling or wall surfaces, pulling the old work electrical box flange against the exposed side of the ceiling or wall and holding it in place. In new construction an old-work box may be also needed if the electrician is asked to leave a wire exposed for future installation of fixture whose precise location has not been determined. In this case she may leave the wire protruding through a ceiling or wall and may plan on later re-locating the wire precisely using an old work retrofit type electrical box.
See for an example of selecting and installing an old work electrical box to power a ceiling-mounted light fixture Watch out: do not rely on old work boxes with minimal support (just drywall, for example) to carry heavier fixtures or ones subject to vibration or movement such as a ceiling fan. Such installations are unsafe. Reader Question: When adding an electrical outlet in a garage, what's code: metal or plastic junction box? I am putting outlet in garage wall that has kitchen on the other side. What is code, plastic or metal? I would think in a garage fire that a plastic box would melt and fire would go through the wall faster? - Steve Smith Reply: Steve both plastic and metal receptacle boxes are code-approved and neither, properly installed and wired, should violate the fire-rating of the wall.
Reader Question: how do I increase the projection of outlets into a room so I can add a kitchen backsplash I am unable to find instructions on how to increase the projection into the room of existing electrical outlets so that I can tile the kitchen backsplash and have the outlets be at the appropriate depth for use and safety. Do I move forward the box to which the outlet is screwed and if so how? - Anne 3/22/12 Reply: use electrical box extenders - shop for an 'electrical box extension' of the proper thickness Anne, Building suppliers like Home Depot and also your electrical supply house sell 'box extenders' in varying thicknesses, made of plastic, code approved, for the purpose you describe. The electrical box extender is sized and shaped to match the electrical receptacle box to which it is to fit.
By removing the electrical receptacle from its mount on the existing box, the box extender is fit as a sort of large rectangular plastic washer, mounting between the existing box edge or surface and the mounting ears of the receptacle or switch. Electrical box extensions are sold in plastic and steel and in thicknesses from about 1/8' up to an inch or even more. The plastic electrical 'gang box extension' shown at above left is produced by Arlington Industries but there are several manufacturers. Just choose an electrical box extender that brings your receptacles far enough forward to suit the thickness of the kitchen backsplash or tile.
Watch out: don't try a makeshift substitute using washers or junk - that's an improper and unsafe repair, leaving a gap around the electrical box sides. Reader Comments: Anne, I'm in the midst of a remodel that posed the same 'problem'. Work box extender rings are available at Home Depot and Lowes in the electrical department. They are plastic, color-coded frames that fit between the front edge of the box and the outlet/switch. The screws that secure the outlet/switch to the box also secure the frame in place. The frames are available in multiple thicknesses.
I suggest you take a tile sample with you so that you can get the correct thickness for your project. Depending on the thickness of the tile, you may need to combine two frames of different thicknesses. While I was changing a failed plug I noticed that the box was too deep. I looked into extenders, and plastic ones (Arlington BE1) are less expensive. Are CSA approved plastic box extenders code compliant for homes? - Gary 7/19/12 Question: how many electrical receptacles are allowed on a 20-amp circuit?
How many receptacles on a 15-amp circuit? How many receptacles can be wired To one 20 amp circuit No. Wire - John K. Reply: 10 electrical receptacles to be wired on a 15-Amp (#14 copper) wire circuit John K: Our photo (left) shows a 20-Amp electrical receptacle - you can recognize it by that horizontal opening that makes the left-hand slot look like the letter 'T' on its side. In general, the Electrical Code [NEC] allows • 10 electrical receptacles to be wired on a 15-Amp (#14 copper) wire circuit, and the Electrical Code [NEC] allows • 13 receptacles on a 20-amp (#12 copper) wire circuit. Watch out: When purchasing the receptacles to use on a 20A circuit, be sure to also buy receptacles that are themselves rated for 20Amp use. You'll see that those least-costly receptacles found in a big pile at building supply stores are more likely intended only for 15-Amp use.
Our photo (left) illustrates an electrical receptacle intended for use on a 20-Amp circuit. Notice that extra horizontal slot?
You won't see that on a 15-Amp electrical receptacle. Reader Question: what is the minimum height that indoor house wiring must be above the ground or floor level? When running wire for a basement, is there a min height the wires must be off the ground? Not the outlet box, but the wire running through the joists. Justin Sheppard Reply: minimum heights for electrical receptacles is not specified in the electrical code NEC No, Justin. But if there is the slightest danger that wires will be nicked by someone driving a nail into a stud though which the wires are run be sure to use steel plates to protect the wire where it passes through the studs.
Simple nail plates are available at any building supplier. See for details. Question: are electrical junction boxes required for wall plugs? Do I really need an electrical box to put a new wall plug in? - Thomas Reply: Yes, Thomas, electrical devices such as switches and receptacles (wall plugs) need to be mounted in a code-approved plastic or metal receptacle (box) for fire safety as well as to assure that the device is mechanically secure.
In fact when you purchase a 'wall plug' you'll see that its metal mounting ears and screws are spaced and designed to connect to an electrical box. Watch out: while it's physically possible to install a wall receptacle or 'plug' without using an enclosure, doing so is dangerous, risking fire and shock, and of course, it's also illegal in virtually every building code jurisdiction. Take a look at our photograph at left - a fire was contained within this electrical junction box. Had the box been omitted there is a good chance the fire would have spread to the building itself. When we hear a question like this it makes me very afraid for you and for future building occupants - as amateur electrical wiring is dangerous. Question: Which end of electrical outlets go 'up'? The ground hole should be up, down, or sideways?
Can the outlet be installed any way? For example ground hole facing up, down, or sideways? Thanks, - Anon Reply: Anon, the position of installation of an electrical outlet won't affect its operation and should not normally affect its approval by the electrical inspector. In some areas I see the outlet installed with the ground connector always 'up' as in our photo at left, though to me that's less attractive than the position shown in our electrical outlet photo at far left.
I've also seen arguments expressing the OPINION that the position of the grounding pin connector might help resist the tendency of a plug to fall out of its connection. That's nonsense.
If a plug is falling out of a receptacle, one of the two objects is worn or damaged and should be replaced to assure a safe, mechanically secure connection. Question: When adding an electrical outlet in a garage, what's code: metal or plastic junction box? I am putting outlet in garage wall that has kitchen on the other side. What is code, plastic or metal? I would think in a garage fire that a plastic box would melt and fire would go through the wall faster?
- Steve Smith Reply: Steve both plastic and metal receptacle boxes are code-approved and neither, properly installed and wired, should violate the fire-rating of the wall. Question: can I connect a pigtail from multiple hot, neutral, or ground wires over to a receptacle I have 2 receptacles that are both side and back wired, 3 hot and 3 neutral wires. I eliminated one receptacle (capping the 3 wires together) but want to keep the other. Is it safe to just run a pigtail from the 3 wires to the receptacle? - Greg When wiring multiple boxes in series, how do you connect both incoming and outgoing ground wires to the back of the receptacle?
Wire, only one wire will fit under the green screw (and not very tightly, at that - there's no washer or clamp.) - Bob M. Reply: Yes, Greg, that's a common practice.
Be sure that your junction box is big enough to contain all of the wires and twist-on connectors. Bob, similar to Greg's question, I see two approaches to hooking up the ground wire in junction boxes and at electrical receptacles. • If the incoming ground wire from the feed circuit was left long enough, it can be run continuously, connected to a grounding screw that connects the wire to the metal junction box (skip this step if plastic junction boxes are in use), on to the ground screw terminal at each electrical receptacle, and ending with a ground clamp crimp connector that ties the incoming ground to the ground wire of the outgoing wire that continues to the next junction box. • If the incoming ground wire is not long enough to run as above, then an additional length of ground wire is pigtailed to the incoming ground and makes the other connections I've described above. In sum, all of the grounds are tied together in the box: the incoming ground, outgoing ground, and ground wires to each of the electrical receptacles. Watch out: while the electrical receptacle ground may also be electrically connected to the metal strap that mounts the receptacle to the junction box (photo at left), and while the junction box may be metal, do not rely on the receptacle mounting screws and receptacle strap-to-box contact to serve as the grounding connection. It's easy for the receptacle mounting screws to be deliberately left loose or to work loose - making that ground connection unreliable.
Use a ground wire. Question: how many electrical receptacles are allowed on a 20-amp circuit? Marigor Und Die Tobisa.
How many receptacles on a 15-amp circuit? How many receptacles can be wired To one 20 amp circuit No. Wire - John K. Reply: John K: Our photo (left) shows a 20-Amp electrical receptacle - you can recognize it by that horizontal opening that makes the left-hand slot look like the letter 'T' on its side. In general, the Electrical Code [NEC] allows • 10 electrical receptacles to be wired on a 15-Amp (#14 copper) wire circuit, and the Electrical Code [NEC] allows • 13 receptacles on a 20-amp (#12 copper) wire circuit. Watch out: When purchasing the receptacles to use on a 20A circuit, be sure to also buy receptacles that are themselves rated for 20Amp use.
You'll see that those least-costly receptacles found in a big pile at building supply stores are more likely intended only for 15-Amp use. Our photo (left) illustrates an electrical receptacle intended for use on a 20-Amp circuit.
Notice that extra horizontal slot? You won't see that on a 15-Amp electrical receptacle. Question: how to fix loose electrical receptacles in a ceramic tile or glass mirror wall wall Is there a way to repair electrical outlets on finished (glass and ceramic tile) walls that were not installed properly without damaging the tile? The outlets and the covers pull away from the wall when the electrical cord plug in removed? Also, what does it mean when an electrical switch with multiple switches which control recessed lights, the ceiling fan and light on the ceiling fan gets hot; what is happening? Is this a fire hazard? Spencer Reply: Mrs.
Spencer: It sounds as if you need a licensed electrician to check and secure your loose electrical outlets - I agree that a loose electrical receptacle is unsafe. But an inspection is needed to understand the underlying problem. It could be simply tightening screws, or it could be that the electrical box itself is not adequately secured in the wall. Luckily there are retrofit parts that can be used and inserted along the box to make it secure, usually without disturbing the surrounding ceramic tile. Some dimmer switches use a resistor to dim the light and it is common for them to get warm.
Very hot - a subjective judgment for homeowners - may indeed be a fire hazard and should be investigated. Question: how do I increase the projection of outlets into a room so I can add a kitchen backsplash I am unable to find instructions on how to increase the projection into the room of existing electrical outlets so that I can tile the kitchen backsplash and have the outlets be at the appropriate depth for use and safety.
Do I move forward the box to which the outlet is screwed and if so how? - Anne 3/22/12 Reply: use electrical box extenders - shop for an 'electrical box extension' of the proper thickness Anne, Building suppliers like Home Depot and also your electrical supply house sell 'box extenders' in varying thicknesses, made of plastic, code approved, for the purpose you describe.
The electrical box extender is sized and shaped to match the electrical receptacle box to which it is to fit. By removing the electrical receptacle from its mount on the existing box, the box extender is fit as a sort of large rectangular plastic washer, mounting between the existing box edge or surface and the mounting ears of the receptacle or switch. Electrical box extensions are sold in plastic and steel and in thicknesses from about 1/8' up to an inch or even more. The plastic electrical 'gang box extension' shown at above left is produced by Arlington Industries but there are several manufacturers. Just choose an electrical box extender that brings your receptacles far enough forward to suit the thickness of the kitchen backsplash or tile. Watch out: don't try a makeshift substitute using washers or junk - that's an improper and unsafe repair, leaving a gap around the electrical box sides.
Reader Comments: Anne, I'm in the midst of a remodel that posed the same 'problem'. Work box extender rings are available at Home Depot and Lowes in the electrical department. They are plastic, color-coded frames that fit between the front edge of the box and the outlet/switch.
The screws that secure the outlet/switch to the box also secure the frame in place. The frames are available in multiple thicknesses. I suggest you take a tile sample with you so that you can get the correct thickness for your project. Depending on the thickness of the tile, you may need to combine two frames of different thicknesses.
While I was changing a failed plug I noticed that the box was too deep. I looked into extenders, and plastic ones (Arlington BE1) are less expensive. Are CSA approved plastic box extenders code compliant for homes? - Gary 7/19/12 Question: electrical outlet height requirements I was looking at some height requirements on electrical outlets this is a very informational site. Thanks Jerm 4/19/12 Reply: Jerm, in the article above at we give the data you want.
Let me know if anything is unclear. Question: I have one line with power coming into a box that will have one two way switch, one three way switch and one power line exiting. Is it proper to splice the incoming black wire to make 3 black wires by pig tailing with wire connectors and doing the same for the white wire and ground? 12/13/12 Reply: I'm sorry but I'm confused by the question. I think it's safe to say that in general it's common practice to use a twist-on connector to splice pigtails or individual wires at an individual hot or neutral wire where more connections are needed than fit with the original wire. Just watch out to avoid violating the space or number of connectors permitted in a junction box of the particular size you're working on.
Continue reading at or select a topic from closely-related articles below, or see our complete INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES below. Or see - questions & answers posted originally at this article Or see Or see Or see for receptacle circuits and similar wiring situations Or see these Articles on Electrical Receptacle Wiring • • • • • • • • • • Suggested citation for this web page at - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice. INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES: Or use the found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia. Try the search box below or by email if you cannot find the answer you need at InspectApedia. Recently-posted questions and answers about electrical box types are. Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia Questions & answers or comments about how to install and wire electrical outlets or receptacles in buildings.
Use the 'Click to Show or Hide FAQs' link just above to see recently-posted questions, comments, replies, try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly. • has provided photographs of various electrical defects used at the Website.
Hemm is a professional electrical inspector in Yucala, CA. • Mark Cramer, Tampa Florida, Mr.
Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a Florida home inspector and home inspection educator. Cramer serves on the ASHI Home Inspection Standards. Contact Mark Cramer at: 727-595-4211 • is an ASHI member and a home inspector (The House Whisperer) is located in Glen Allen, VA 23060.
He is also a contributor to InspectApedia.com in several technical areas such as plumbing and appliances (dryer vents). Cranor at 804-747-7747 or by Email: • [3] can be found online at • [4] The 2008 NEC National Electrical Code (ISBN 9903) (you'll need to sign in as a professional or as a visitor) • [5] Special thanks to our reader Steve who pointed out prior errors in our illustrations. • [6] Simpson Strong-Tie, 'Code Compliant Repair and Protection Guide for the Installation of Utilities in Wood Frame Construction', web search 5/21/12, original source strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/F-REPRPROTECT09.pdf, [copy on file as /Structures/Framing/Simpson_Framing_Protectors.pdf ]. 'The information in this guide is a summary of requirements from the 2003, 2006 and 2009 International Residential Code (IRC), International Building Code (IBC), International Plumbing Code (IPC), International Mechanical Code (IMC), 2006 Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) and the 2005 National Electrical Code.'
• 'Electrical System Inspection Basics,' Richard C. Wolcott, ASHI 8th Annual Education Conference, Boston 1985. • 'Simplified Electrical Wiring,' Sears, Roebuck and Co., 15705 (F5428) Rev.
4-77 1977 [Lots of sketches of older-type service panels.] • 'How to plan and install electric wiring for homes, farms, garages, shops,' Montgomery Ward Co., 83-850. • 'Simplified Electrical Wiring,' Sears, Roebuck and Co., 15705 (F5428) Rev. 4-77 1977 [Lots of sketches of older-type service panels.] • 'Home Wiring Inspection,' Roswell W. Ard, Rodale's New Shelter, July/August, 1985 p. • 'Evaluating Wiring in Older Minnesota Homes,' Agricultural Extension Service, University of Minnesota, St.
Paul, Minnesota 55108. • 'Electrical Systems,' A Training Manual for Home Inspectors, Alfred L.
Alk, American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), 1987, available from ASHI. [DF NOTE: I do NOT recommend this obsolete publication, though it was cited in the original Journal article as it contains unsafe inaccuracies] • 'Basic Housing Inspection,' US DHEW, S352.75 U48, p.144, out of print, but is available in most state libraries. Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair • Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the. Also see our • Recommended books on electrical inspection, electrical wiring, electrical problem diagnosis, and electrical repair can be found in the section of the InspectAPedia Bookstore. (courtesy of Amazon.com) •.
• 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email:.
The firm provides professional & &. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material. • illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Illustrated Home purchased as a single order Enter INSPECTAILL in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. • to manufacturer's model and serial number information for heating and cooling equipment, useful for determining the age of heating boilers, furnaces, water heaters is provided by Toronto - Carson Dunlop Weldon & Associates Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A.
A 5% discount on any number of copies of the Technical Reference Guide purchased as a single order. Just enter INSPECTATRG in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. •, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively.
Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Or choose the for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones.
Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. Building inspection education & report writing systems from • - protocol ASTM Standard E 2018-08 for Property Condition Assessments • including home study & live classes at eleven colleges & universities. • - ASHI@Home Training 10-course program.
Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. A 5% discount on these courses: Enter INSPECTAHITP in the order payment page 'Promo/Redemption' space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. • manages business operations,scheduling, & inspection report writing using Carson Dunlop's knowledge base & color images. The Horizon system runs on always-available cloud-based software for office computers, laptops, tablets, iPad, Android, & other smartphones.